A visit to the Laviim Winery

In the heart of Hadera lies Laviim Winery, known to many for three main landmarks: the power station, Hillel Yaffe Hospital, and “Sami in the Square,” a restaurant that has not lost its charm and once symbolized the city's entrance.

I met 37-year-old Shoval Lavi, the winemaker of Laviim Winery, at his home in Hadera, where several pressing questions occupied my mind: Will there be an attack on Iran? Have I packed everything in the emergency bag? And why on earth does Waze insist I’m in Beirut again? These questions accompanied what bizarrely turned into a journey to the "northern border" of Israel today, culminating in a fascinating encounter with a novice winemaker.

Winemaking and establishing a winery have been dreams of Shoval’s since he began exploring wine tastings as a teenager. However, it was two relatives, both agronomists, who instilled in him a love for agriculture. For Shoval, wine represents a connection between the worlds he cherishes: land, farming, and wine.

Shoval holds a bachelor's degree from the Hebrew University Faculty of Agriculture and a master's degree in winemaking and vineyard cultivation from the same faculty. He works as an agricultural advisor for a company that trains agricultural students from Africa and Asia.

When his father passed away at a relatively young age, Shoval realized what many overlook: his dreams of producing wine would not fulfill themselves.

Family and Wine

Three years ago, he purchased equipment, sourced grapes, and produced 1,200 bottles of wine. Today, his thoughts are turning toward the future, and a year ago, he planted a vineyard using biodynamic principles in Nir Yafeh, between Megiddo and Ein Harod.

The vineyard features four grape varieties: Chenin Blanc, Carignan, Grenache Noir, and Malbec, some for winery use and some for sale. Despite the turmoil surrounding us and the fact that Shoval is actively serving in the reserves as an artilleryman, he sounds very optimistic. His warm demeanor and the smile that graces his face throughout the interview indicate that his energy is wholly invested in his family and wine.

The past year, under the shadow of war, has significantly impacted Shoval's winemaking. On one hand, he has struggled to produce wine, aside from one type; on the other hand, it has been a good year for activities that are often mistakenly sidelined: marketing, market familiarization, and more. By the way, there are still a few bottles from the previous harvest, which yielded 2,500 bottles, so there’s something to drink.

Shoval’s grand aspiration is to establish a winery with a visitor center where he can host people and introduce them to his wines and ciders. This is, for him, the ultimate way to share what he does with others.

Knows What He’s Doing

The advantage of a small winery is that Shoval can pursue what he loves and what suits him each year. Like the vine, he adapts to the conditions of the year: "This year, for example, 90% of the wines I’ll drink are whites. Last year, I connected very much with reds. It’s hard to say which variety or style I particularly connect with."

On the shelf, one can find a dry white wine made from Gewürztraminer with a touch of Riesling, red wines from varieties including Carignan and Malbec, and a rosé that contains a blend of most of the varieties Shoval uses. Each wine has a name or special concept, but the unique labels, featuring fascinating graphic design, cannot be overlooked.

The labels are designed by Shavit Lavi-Erlich, Shoval's sister, creating something modern alongside traditional wine concepts. The family name Lavi appears in letters and tendrils on the label, alongside a technical map that resembles a sketch, detailing aspects of the wine such as its color and technical characteristics: pH, alcohol percentage, barrel use, aging, and more.

The resulting sketch changes from wine to wine and from year to year, creating a stunning and intriguing effect. Interpretations for each label can be found on the winery's Facebook page. If it were a bottle I didn’t recognize on a wine shop shelf, I would definitely reach for it out of curiosity. Shavit also designed the cider labels.

According to Shoval, wine should express its inherent qualities rather than the winemaker's attributes. Thus, he prefers to minimize intervention with the grapes during the winemaking process. For instance, he rarely adds acid to the wine, resolving issues as they arise through blending.

He uses barrels only for one wine, but as I mentioned, his taste evolves greatly, and his methods will certainly change over the years. Nonetheless, it’s clear there’s someone here who knows what he’s doing.

The First Laviim

Dvir: A red wine named after his late father, the first he made from Carignan grapes. His father never got to taste this wine, but Shoval believes he would have loved it.

Midbari: A red wine from Marselan and Cabernet Franc grapes sourced from the northern Negev region.

Wine in Color: A wine that Shoval's son "invented." When Shoval asked his son what kind of wine he wanted him to make, he replied, "Orange." Shoval blended Gewürztraminer and a bit of Riesling to create a dry, aromatic white wine that deceives the palate since, according to all data, it is "dry," but the mouthfeel is that of a semi-dry wine. This isn’t an orange wine per se, but to deepen the color, the Gewürztraminer grapes were macerated on their skins for eight hours.

The Dreamer: A rosé with a wonderful salmon color inspired by winemaker Sasson Ben-Aharon. This wine includes most of the varieties Shoval uses to make his wines, with the blend changing from year to year.

Or: An exciting wine, the only one produced in the past year and the only one aged in old wooden barrels. Made from Malbec grapes harvested in August 2023, this wine is named after Shoval's friend, Or Akuni, who was tragically murdered along with her parents on October 7 at Kibbutz Netiv Ha'asara. Or worked with Shoval in instruction and was traveling to see her parents for the holiday. The outcome is already known. The wine was bottled symbolically on October 7 this year. From this wine, 550 bottles were produced, and "despite the painful story, wine creates pleasant memories."

Ciders: All are named after family members. Reut's Ferment is named after Shoval's wife, flavored with rose buds, cinnamon, and sage; Shavit's Ferment is named after his sister, made with hops used in beer; Carmel's Ferment is made from apple and pomegranate; and Negev's Ferment, named after his daughter, contains hawaij.

The wines and ciders can be ordered through the Laviim Winery Facebook page or at various fairs.