Closest to nature: The Galilee winery producing organic wine

On the terrace of Lotem Winery, facing the magical Galilee landscape, two or three couples sit, breathing the clear air with a glass of wine in hand, diving deep into perfect escapism.

On regular days, it's hard to find a spot on the terrace, from which you can view the Galilee and the Kinneret. This Galilee area is quiet and peaceful, but in these times, for those who don't live here, the words Galilee, Golan, and northern Israel hint at war rather than tranquility. In this case, unjustly so.

We visited on a warm spring day and enjoyed the northern breeze, the wonderful view, and the wine. We tasted a variety of wines with Alex Polonsky, the operational manager and production manager, and Shahar Kreizler, the marketing manager of Amphorae and Lotem wineries. It was intriguing, interesting, and delicious.

Lotem Winery has undergone several significant changes over the years. The winery was established by Yaniv Kimchi in 1991 in the Ma'ale Tzvia settlement. In 2010, the winery was moved to Kibbutz Lotem and its name was changed to Lotem Winery.

In 2023, the winery was acquired by the owners of Amphorae Winery. Amphorae’s winemaker, Meiram Harel, acts as the consulting winemaker involved in decisions and assistance, while the actual winemaker is Haithem Bashara, who studied winemaking in Beaune, Burgundy, and continues the winery's original line as a completely organic winery.

What is an Organic Winery?

An organic winery aims to preserve the natural flavors given by the grapes, without the involvement of various chemicals.

This method of working believes in supporting and collaborating with nature and the natural ecosystem in the area, meaning both growing vines and preserving the vegetation, insects, and wildlife.

The view of the vine is that it is a living organism that knows how to take care of itself when given the right environment. The amount of spraying in the vineyards is very minimal, supplemented by biological pest control.

In the winery, the wine receives a small addition of sulfur according to European organic standards, and both cultured and wild yeasts that come with the grapes from the vineyard are used.

Tzivon and Shifon

The winery's wines are made from grapes that come from two vineyards: Tzivon Vineyard and Shifon Vineyard. Tzivon Vineyard is located in a natural oak forest in Kibbutz Tzivon, at the foot of Mount Meron, at an altitude of 680-750 meters above sea level.

The vineyard spreads at the foot of a wadi with natural forest. The combination of limestone rocks and rich soil, in an area far from the sea, is very cold in winter and dry in summer. Morning fogs that cool the area help the grapes not to ripen too quickly. The vineyards grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Nebbiolo, Petit Verdot, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Shifon Vineyard is located on the western slopes of Tel Shifon in the central Golan, at an altitude of 750-800 meters. The soil is basaltic and volcanic with spectacular views and ancient oak trees scattered around the vineyard.

In summer, it is hot and dry, and in winter, the vineyards receive cold doses, rain, and even snow, which allow for the production of wines with rich flavors and unique taste. The grapes grown in Shifon are Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Semillon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

Healthy and Stable Fruit

"An organic vineyard yields healthy and stable fruit," says Alex. "Of course, there are interventions, control, and monitoring, but pest control is biological, the compost and other materials are only those allowed under organic standards. All this is based on the belief that they produce more intense fruit, and indeed, it has been proven over the years with fuller ripening, taste complexities, and more."

"The winery is organic and biodynamic, and the connection between them is very similar. Biodynamics is a philosophical approach with implications for all aspects of life, and organic takes its essence."

"And still, the person is at the center, orchestrating the whole affair," adds Shahar. "Ido the viticulturist is the one who ensures synchronization and goes with the cycles of nature. There is a lot of room for the intuitions of the viticulturist, the person, who needs to ensure that the vineyard and winery sustain themselves."

"In the winery, the most significant expression is to fix mistakes," Alex explains. "A non-organic winery has a variety of tools to use to achieve the accepted and desired taste for the audience. An organic winery cannot use these tools and works with what is available and permitted, with great precision."

"The work is more detailed because you have to use each element in a way that meets the organic standards to preserve the fruit flavors. This meets us in both white and red wines, where the alcohol is not high and there isn’t much wood, because we prefer fresh, lean, and sharp wines that suit the local climate."

The winery produces wine in several series: 'Lotem' is the entry-level series, and the 'Shifon' series contains special wines coming from Shifon and Tzivon vineyards. The wines currently sold are white wines from 2022 and red wines from 2021.

Lotem, Vega 2022

A young and fun white wine made from Chardonnay and some Sauvignon Blanc grapes, without oak, without malolactic fermentation. A light and refreshing wine with aromas of green apple, pear, and lovely floral notes. Perfect to start the weekend on a Friday afternoon. Price: NIS 85.

Lotem, Sauvignon Blanc 2022

This wine, made from Shifon Vineyard grapes, is a classic, fruity, crisp, mineral, and culinary Sauvignon Blanc, with aromas of grapefruit, passion fruit, and slight herbaceousness. Tart, refreshing, and enticing. Price: NIS 96.

Lotem, Rosé 2022

A blend of Merlot and a bit of Syrah and Nebbiolo grapes. The Merlot adds cherry and strawberry aromas and velvety texture, the Syrah deepens the flavors with dark fruit, chocolate, and spices, and the Nebbiolo ensures fruit freshness and additional spiciness. A light and refreshing wine, but also rich and complex. Perfect for a picnic. Price: NIS 96.

Lotem, Scherzo 2021

From Merlot grapes from Shifon Vineyard, this is a light red wine without aging, with aromas of raspberry, strawberry, fresh cherry, and a slight herbaceousness. Medium body and balanced acidity. A red that disguised as a white, enjoyable even in summer. Price: NIS 85.

Lotem, Altair 2021

A red wine from Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and a bit of Nebbiolo grapes. A light red reminiscent of Beaujolais Nouveau wines, best served chilled. Drinking red while feeling rosé. Price: NIS 98.

Lotem, Red 2021

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Nebbiolo grapes from Tzivon Vineyard created an elegant and delicate wine, fruity and slightly spicy with mild acidity and medium body. Price: NIS 85.

Lotem, Deneb 2021

A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot grapes. A powerful, complex, rich, and spicy wine, yet not heavy. Quite full-bodied with flavors of ripe red fruits combined with fresh and vibrant fruit. Price: NIS 98.

Tzivon, Luana 2022

A white wine from Sauvignon Blanc grapes coming from a special plot in the wadi of Tzivon Vineyard. An excellent Sauvignon Blanc, fresh, mineral, and crisp. One of the winery's best wines. It has a beautiful body, deep character, refreshing acidity of grapefruit, lime, and freshly cut grass, and a long and refreshing finish. Price: NIS 120.

Shifon, Semillon 2022

The Semillon grapes came from Shifon Vineyard in the Golan Heights and rested on the lees in the winery. Once opened in the glass, it reveals a complex, fresh, and floral wine, with aromas of fresh summer fruits, medium body, and long finish. A wine worth drinking in a year or two. Price: NIS 120.

Shifon, Orange 2022

The orange wine is not yet bottled and came from the tank. Semillon grapes and some Sauvignon Blanc. This time, a natural wine without sulfur and yeasts, which underwent spontaneous fermentation. A fragrant and floral wine, slightly anise-like, slightly funky. Interesting to see how it will develop in the bottle. Price: NIS 120.

Shifon, Syrah 2021

Syrah grapes from Tzivon Vineyard. A delicate and elegant wine, fruity, slightly peppery, not heavy, pleasant and fun. Price: NIS 130.

Tzivon, Cabernet Franc 2021

One of the winery's elegant, complex, and enjoyable red wines. A fresh, tasty wine with great acidity, fresh red and black fruit, and light herbal spiciness. A balanced wine with flavors that linger in the mouth for a long time. Price: NIS 180.

Tzivon, Nebbiolo 2021

One of the winery's flagship wines, produced only in particularly good years. A wine that loves time, both in the vineyard with late harvesting, in the winery with long fermentation, usually natural and slow, and in the bottle.

It usually sits for five years in the winery, but the current wine feels ready to drink. An approachable wine on the light side of Nebbiolo, with a very light color, almost rosé. Fresh cherry aromas, spices, and pleasant acidity. An exciting and surprising wine that combines power with softness and lightness. Worth waiting a bit more with it. Price: NIS 180.