How we stopped fearing and started loving white wine

"Red, white, or rosé?" you'll be asked at a restaurant, wine bar, or café. Not long ago, if you craved a glass of wine in such places, you were likely to be served a red drink, rich in alcohol and tannins. How did white wine become a superstar, and what did we drink before it?

In the "Rogov's Guide to Israeli Wines 2010," the legendary wine critic Daniel Rogov reviewed the local wine industry. It's interesting to revisit that guide to understand how the Israeli wine world has transformed since then.

Rogov marked 1985 as the turning point. Until then, Israel mainly produced semi-dry or sweet white wines from varieties like Semillon, Emerald Riesling, and Colombard. The reds were Carignan, Petit Verdot, and Grenache, mostly used to produce simple and sweet sacramental wines.

The shift occurred when vineyards of noble grape varieties were planted, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, in the Golan Heights and Upper Galilee. Golan Heights Winery was the first to demonstrate, first to Israelis and then to the world, that it was possible to produce high-quality wines here at an international level.

In the early 1990s, the tastes and consumption habits of wine drinkers began to change. Israelis gradually transitioned from consuming semi-dry and sweet white wines, mainly at family and social events, to drinking large and intense dry red wines that became a status symbol for a broad-minded middle class.

A quick glance at the guide reveals that most wines reviewed by Rogov in 2010 were dry reds, and almost all the wineries listed produced at least one wine from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Meanwhile, Around the World

Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, a similar process occurred globally, especially in the US, where the production of red wines from international varieties increased significantly. There were many reasons for this, but two significant events marked the change.

The first was the success of Napa wines in a blind tasting against Bordeaux and Burgundy wines in 1976, known as the "Judgment of Paris."

Napa Valley winery owners and winemakers received a confidence boost from prominent wine critics. Armed with a hefty dose of self-assurance, they focused on making red wines "in the Bordeaux style" with an American interpretation (more alcohol, more oak, more ripe fruit, more of everything).

The second event that elevated the red wine's reputation occurred in 1991 when an investigation was broadcast on the popular CBS TV show "60 Minutes." Titled "The French Paradox," journalist Morley Safer questioned the robust health of the French despite a hedonistic lifestyle, devoid of exercise, and rich in alcohol and high-fat foods.

Safer attributed the French's good physical condition to their daily consumption of red wine, which contains a high amount of antioxidant organic compounds (polyphenols) that help prevent heart disease and cardiovascular issues.

Following the broadcast, red wine consumption in the US jumped by about 40% in a short time. Globally, the news about red wine's health benefits spread, and its consumption numbers rose accordingly.

Red Out, White In

Just as in 2010, almost every winery in Israel produced red wine from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, it seems that in 2024 almost every Israeli winery produces white wine.

In 2012, under the leadership of winemaker Doron Rav Hon, Sphera Winery declared it would produce only white wines, marking the beginning of the trend: Red wines out, white wines in.

Wine expert Haim Gan also sensed the spirit of the times and has been holding the White Festival at the Herzliya Marina annually since 2008, a festival entirely dedicated to celebrating white wines.

The rise of white wines is supported by numbers: In 2015, about 78% of the wine grapes harvested in Israel were red, and about 22% were white. Due to massive planting of white varieties, the results are already evident, and as of 2023, about 67% of our wine grapes were red and about 33% were white.

A similar trend is seen in sales. According to a report by the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development, the quantity of white wine sold in retail chains doubled between 2010 and 2020.

Globally, there has also been a shift in public taste. Following the economic crisis at the turn of the millennium and the move towards lighter, more refreshing drinks with less alcohol, light-bodied white wines, especially Sauvignon Blanc, have gained momentum and are experiencing a revival.

According to OIV data, since the beginning of this millennium, white wine consumption has increased by about 10%, rosé wines have risen by about 17%, while red wines have decreased by about 17%.

In a warming world, at the end of a hot summer day, there's no debate. A chilled and refreshing white wine with high acidity, less alcohol, and explosive fruit is what we want to drink. Like "Mount Hermon White" from the Golan Heights Winery.

Golan Heights Winery, Mount Hermon White 2023

A blend of white grapes from the Golan Heights. This white wine is meant for immediate consumption and is free of pretensions.

It has a pale yellow color, with aromas of pear, ripe peach, and jasmine on the nose. On tasting, the wine is dry with medium acidity, light body, and the same ripe white fruits and flowers.

In my opinion, "Mount Hermon White" represents simple white wines that are most enjoyable to drink in the endless Israeli summer and will be perfect alongside cold watermelon and Bulgarian cheese. Tasty and the price is unbeatable. Price: NIS 40.