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The Jerusalem Post

Castel Winery founder celebrates 80 with a new white wine launch

 
 Razi'el Winery wines (photo credit: ELAD BRAMI)
Razi'el Winery wines
(photo credit: ELAD BRAMI)

A milestone celebration and a new collaboration with a leading restaurant group has prompted Eli Ben-Zaken to reflect on the past, present, and future of Israeli wine.

In 2015, Razi’el Winery was founded after Castel Winery relocated from Ramat Razi’el in the Jerusalem Hills, where it had operated for over 20 years, to its new home in Yad Hashmona near Neve Ilan. For Eli Ben-Zaken, the move marked both a transition of leadership to his children and the creation of a new "playground" in Ramat Razi’el, the birthplace of his winemaking journey.

Ben-Zaken established Razi’el Winery with a clear vision: to explore Mediterranean grape varieties and express their authentic character in the unique terroir of the Judean Hills. True to his adventurous yet meticulous nature, he began by producing sparkling wines using the traditional method, followed by wines inspired by France’s Rhône Valley. This led to the creation of Razi’el Red, followed by a rosé, and now, completing the series, Razi’el Blanc.

The new Razi’el Blanc was launched in mid-November at an event that also marked Ben-Zaken’s 80th birthday and the beginning of a partnership with the R2M restaurant group led by Ruti Broudo.

 Eli Ben-Zaken, Castel Winery (credit: DAVID SILVERMAN)
Eli Ben-Zaken, Castel Winery (credit: DAVID SILVERMAN)

No Dream, No Vision

During the event, R2M sommelier Adar Bershadsky interviewed Ben-Zaken and wine expert Yair Haidu. Ben-Zaken reflected on the early days of Castel Winery in the 1990s, noting that it was not founded out of a grand vision.“I consider myself lucky. Lucky that, at the time, Margalit Winery had already started, and there was talk of Israel’s first boutique winery. I also had the opportunity to buy dollars at the bank and travel abroad,” he explained.

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“In the early ’90s, discerning palates in Israel were already traveling through Europe, eating well, drinking fine wines, and knowing what they wanted. That’s when I first met Yair Haidu, who came to taste my wines, and we’ve been friends ever since.”

 Eli Ben-Zaken, Adar Bershadsky and Yair Haidu (credit: ELAD BRAMI)
Eli Ben-Zaken, Adar Bershadsky and Yair Haidu (credit: ELAD BRAMI)

Perhaps Some Vision After All

“This winery is a testament to the State of Israel,” said Haidu. “Eli may see it as chance, but understand this: here is a man who planted the first vineyard in the Judean Hills since the Muslim conquest and, in doing so, made history—intentionally or not.”

“Few people with a vision have succeeded as Castel has. It’s even harder to succeed twice—with a new brand, a new story, a new era, and a new audience. The courage to take risks and reinvent oneself is something I deeply admire. It keeps you young, curious, and dreaming anew. I’m proud of you, Eli, and thrilled to celebrate Razi’el.”

 Castel Winery (credit: ELAD BRAMI)
Castel Winery (credit: ELAD BRAMI)

Facing Reality

“Castel moved to Yad Hashmona because it was clear we needed to expand and improve production,” Ben-Zaken said. “With Razi’el, the story was different—it took two years. We could have rented the space to another winery or made more Castel wine here. Instead, we opened a new, distinct winery.”


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Two key elements shaped Razi’el: sparkling wine, or as Ben-Zaken calls it, "wine with bubbles," and a desire to work with different grape varieties.

Haidu highlighted the shift in Israeli culinary culture. “In the ’90s, the ideal was high-end French cuisine in fancy restaurants. By 2001, places like Raphael and Arcadia emerged, embracing local flavors—grandmother’s recipes and market dishes.”

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“At that time, French wines felt irrelevant to Israel, while Eli crafted Bordeaux-style wines. To succeed globally, we can’t rely solely on Bordeaux. In 2024, relevance means creating wines that reflect the local language. Israel’s potential lies in local and regional varieties. And how fortunate we are to explore that in a second winery.”

“Today,” Haidu continued, “Castel is no longer just the famous winery, and Razi’el isn’t the small newcomer. Both can stand on equal footing, each with its style, character, and terroir. Razi’el is maturing into a winery with roots, values, and a compelling story.”

 The Ben-Zaken family (credit: ELAD BRAMI)
The Ben-Zaken family (credit: ELAD BRAMI)

Not Following Trends

Ben-Zaken disagrees with chasing trends. “I planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot because I was inspired by Bordeaux wines—the best I’d tasted. The first wine that impressed me in the mid-’80s was Bordeaux, and that’s what I wanted to make.”

“I don’t follow trends. Chardonnay was another discovery that led me to make white wine, even though I didn’t drink whites before. I always say Chardonnay is the ‘most red of white wines.’ That’s how I progressed with Castel.”

“When we considered Razi’el, we didn’t want to replicate what we’d done before. We sought a new challenge, and it became clear that Syrah and its related varieties would be our focus.”

 Castel Grand Vin (credit: PR)
Castel Grand Vin (credit: PR)

From Red to White

“It’s surprising how long Israel relied solely on red wine in this heat,” Haidu remarked. “I’m delighted about Razi’el’s white wine. Even in red wines today, there’s a lighter, more accessible style suitable for a warm climate.”

“Now, many in Israel drink white wines year-round, not just in summer. It’s exciting that both Castel and Razi’el offer whites—it’s a step in the right direction.”

“Wine should match the occasion,” added Ben-Zaken. “We shouldn’t be fixed on specific wines. Instead, imagine the meal and pair the wine accordingly.”

 Castel Winery (credit: ELAD BRAMI)
Castel Winery (credit: ELAD BRAMI)

Israeli Wine on the Global Stage

“This past year hasn’t been kind to Israeli wine,” Haidu noted. “Today, at least 20 Israeli wineries produce wines of world-class quality, with a distinct local identity. However, our prices remain high.”

“The global curiosity for wines from distant places is at an all-time high, and Israel can benefit. We need to tell our story beyond kosher certification. That’s why the initiative by the Judean Quartet—Castel, Tzora, Sphera, and Flam—is groundbreaking.”

“This pioneering approach, rooted in place, identity, and a younger generation, is what people seek today. After the war, I believe better days lie ahead.”

“Hope remains,” Ben-Zaken sighed. “The challenge is immense. We may never fully overcome it, but we’ll keep making excellent Israeli wine until it gains recognition. If anyone loses out, it’s not us—it’s them.”

 Razi’el Winery (credit: ELAD BRAMI)
Razi’el Winery (credit: ELAD BRAMI)

Razi’el Blanc 2023

The first white wine from Razi’el Winery is as elegant as its red predecessor. Made from Roussanne with a touch of Viognier, it was fermented in large 600-liter French oak barrels and aged on the lees for eight months.

This complex wine offers balanced aromas, sharp acidity that complements any dish, and a long, refreshing finish. As Ben-Zaken puts it: “Razi’el Blanc is a wine with presence and depth, with tension between acidity and fruit, complexity and freshness—ensuring it will be enjoyed for years to come.”

Price: NIS 125.

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