Lyrarakis Winery, Crete: A must-see for wine enthusiasts

Greek wines are gaining more attention among wine lovers in Israel, starting with Assyrtiko wines from Santorini. These wines became a trend among sommeliers about four or five years ago, and their popularity has been steadily increasing. While Israelis are used to paying high prices for French and Italian wines, Greece’s wine industry is both impressive and relatively unknown. The pricing, like Greece itself, is quite different.

And if we’re talking about Greece, why not Crete? It’s the largest island in the country and the fifth largest in the Mediterranean. The Lyrarakis family planted its first vineyards on Crete in the mid-20th century, with the winery becoming fully operational by the end of that century—around 25 years ago. The winery is located in the mountainous area of Crete, 25 kilometers from Heraklion. Its vineyards are situated in the hills south of the city, as well as in other parts of the island, including the Sitia region in the east and Rethymno, west of Heraklion.

The wines revolve around many local grape varieties, and the winemaking style leans towards restraint, allowing the terroir and the grapes to shine. The elevation of the vineyards plays a key role, providing a significant presence to the fruit, which is never overwhelming or overly concentrated. The white wines exhibit delightful minerality, while the reds are moderate, avoiding an overpowering body, fruit, or oak. Many of these wines are ideal for summer, and some can even be enjoyed slightly chilled.

Among the local varieties, Lyrarakis also produces Assyrtiko, which is quite different from the well-known Santorini variety. It’s more fruity and aromatic, less sharp, and has a nice mineral balance. These wines are reasonably priced, and given their quality, they offer excellent value for money.

For those who haven’t traveled this summer, Lyrarakis wines are definitely worth your attention. If you’re in Crete with a rental car, it’s easy to visit the winery's visitor center. You can also purchase Lyrarakis wines in Israel here or through this email address. Cheers!

Lyrarakis, Vidiano Queen 2023100% Vidiano from organic vineyards in the Heraklion region of central Crete, at an altitude of 550 meters. Fermented in stainless steel barrels. 24 hours of skin contact. Pale gold color. On the nose, tropical fruits, lemony notes, and floral hints. Light-medium body. 13% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 85 

Best paired with: Fish, seafood, goat cheese.

Critic's notes: Delicate, fruity, and enjoyable with pleasant floral notes, medium acidity, crispness, and a hint of minerality. A simple yet gastronomically versatile wine.

Value for money: 4.5/5 (Excellent).

Lyrarakis, Liatiko Queen 2023100% Liatiko grapes from vineyards in the Rethymno region (850 meters altitude) and Sitia in eastern Crete (580 meters altitude). 7% of the grapes were fermented as whole clusters. Ruby red color. On the nose, red fruits and spices. Light body. 13.55% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 89 

Best paired with: Chicken, pizza, meat sandwiches, veal dishes.

Critic's notes: Light and summery, with charming red fruit and noticeable sweet spices. Nice supporting acidity. A wine suited to the Mediterranean climate, perfect for enjoying on a hot summer day, preferably slightly chilled. It has at least three years of aging potential. A lovely wine.

Value for money: 4/5 (Very good).

Lyrarakis, Lyrarakis Red 201988% Syrah blended with 12% Kotsifali from the Alagni region of central Crete (480 meters altitude). Aged for nine months in new French oak barrels. Dark red color. On the nose, red and black fruits, flowers, and spices. Medium-full body. 14% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 89 

Best paired with: Steaks, lamb chops, bone-in cuts, beef and lamb stews.

Critic's notes: Abundant spices typical of Syrah, with a light smoky touch. Good fruit paired with precise acidity. An excellent meat wine that complements dishes without overpowering them.

Value for money: 4.5/5 (Excellent).

Lyrarakis, Liatiko Kedros 2023A dry rosé made from 100% Liatiko grapes from the Kedros vineyard, near Rethymno in central Crete. Aged in barrels of 225, 300, and 600 liters for two months. Pink color. On the nose, red fruits and blossoms. Light-medium body. 13.1% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 103 

Best paired with: Fish, seafood, chicken, pizza, and sandwiches.

Critic's notes: Good fruit, with significant presence but not overpowering, backed by sharp and precise acidity. Mineral hints are present in the background, along with a touch of delicate powderiness. Good dryness and a nice gastronomic balance.

Value for money: 3/5 (Not bad).

Lyrarakis, Assyrtiko Voila 2023Assyrtiko grapes from the single vineyard Voila in eastern Crete, near Sitia. Fermented in stainless steel tanks with 24 hours of skin contact. Pale gold color. On the nose, white fruit and lemon. Medium body. 13.5% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 105 

Best paired with: Fish and white meats.

Critic's notes: While most people are familiar with Assyrtiko from Santorini, Assyrtiko is also made in northern Greece near Thessaloniki and in Crete. This one is more fruity and aromatic than its Santorini counterpart and less sharp. It has notable acidity, along with salinity and a nice mineral element.

Value for money: 4/5 (Very good).

Lyrarakis, Dafni Psarades 2023100% Dafni grapes from the single vineyard Psarades in Alagni, central Crete, at an altitude of 480 meters. Fermented in stainless steel tanks with three hours of skin contact. The final blend aged on the lees for four months. Pale gold color. Very herbaceous on the nose. Medium body. 12.6% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 105 

Best paired with: Fish, seafood, and white meats.

Critic's notes: Very botanical and herbaceous, with prominent and precise acidity, a lovely touch of salinity, and a long, impressive aftertaste. A complex wine, full of nuances, that feels like a charming herb garden—refined and elegant.

Value for money: 4.5/5 (Excellent, hard to find this quality at such a price).