The military sneakers that took 2024 by storm: Why everyone wants a pair

In the ever-changing world of fashion, simplicity often captures our hearts. This is precisely the case with GAT (German Army Trainers), unisex sneakers that were born decades ago and have become the must-have item of 2024. What’s the secret that turned a simple military shoe into a coveted fashion item? We delved into this phenomenon to understand why everyone wants a pair and how they can be styled with an Israeli flair.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by miho (@miho_jiyu)

“If I don’t want to wear boots or something crazy, I put on my GATs and they just work,” says a 26-year-old man from Las Vegas to the Wall Street Journal. He’s referring to the German Army Trainers, unisex sneakers with a thin rubber sole, white leather upper, gray suede accents around the toe, and minimal branding. These quiet yet stylish shoes were likely created in the 1970s or early 1980s for the German military.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Naufal Z (@falzuh)

Today, as simple retro-style sneakers experience a resurgence, the GATs are making a big comeback. According to Rachel Makar, a senior merchandising manager at the resale site StockX, the most popular GAT is Adidas’ BW Army shoe. Between January and July 2024, sales of this model skyrocketed by 3,500% compared to the previous year.

Makar describes the GAT as “quiet cult sneakers” and a “must-have” for anyone seeking a subtler alternative to the Adidas Samba. The Samba has dominated as the 'it' sneaker for over a year, but some are growing tired of its omnipresence and are turning to more understated retro alternatives.

The origins of the GAT are somewhat unclear. Puma allegedly designed the prototype for the German army, and Adidas supplied the BW Army shoes to the Bundeswehr in the 1980s and 1990s. Hundreds of thousands of pairs were delivered to the military in the latter part of the 20th century.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by miho (@miho_jiyu)

One of the most famous GAT versions today is Maison Margiela’s Replica shoe, priced at $670 (around NIS 2,500). However, more affordable versions can be found from brands like Oliver Cabell ($199) and the cult Slovak brand Novesta (around $160). Even mainstream brands like J.Crew and Urban Outfitters offer their own versions, reflecting the shoe’s growing popularity.

Rose Ford, a celebrity stylist from London, attributes the GAT's success to its simplicity, calling it a “blank canvas” that can be paired with looks ranging from grunge to high fashion. Susan Carol Cooper, a 43-year-old design studio manager from Glasgow, Scotland, tells the Wall Street Journal that she prefers GATs over colorful sneakers because they complement her vintage and workwear style.

When it comes to styling, Gauthier Borsarello, the creative director of the Parisian brand Fursac, advises avoiding overly wide pants that might overwhelm the slim sneakers. “The trousers should slightly cover the GATs, but not too much,” he says.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by FURSAC (@fursac.paris)

If you’re looking for original vintage GATs, try searching on Etsy or eBay, and expect to pay around $70, according to Borsarello. He suggests going up a size, as “they look better when tightly laced.”

In Israel, this trend is gaining momentum, with leading fashion stores beginning to stock versions of the GAT. It’s a great opportunity to add a classic and versatile item to your shoe collection, one that fits every look—from jeans and a T-shirt to elegant suit trousers.

With Israel's hot summer, GATs offer a comfortable and breathable alternative to heavier sneakers, making them a perfect choice for city strolls or casual evening outings. It seems that GATs are not just a passing trend but a smart investment in a classic shoe that will serve you well for years to come.