The remarkable wines of Underdog Winery

Dror Engelstein loves dogs—he has six at home—so he named his winery "Underdog." Well, not exactly, or at least not entirely.

Dror, seeking a name with a clear statement, realized he was the "underdog"—one who started from scratch, respecting traditional craftsmanship, loving the old world, but not confining himself to limitations. He believes in doing what feels right, understanding that he must prove himself, without labels. He thinks of the end customer, but never compromises his truth.

During the establishment of his new winery and in the midst of the harvest, we met with Dror, heard about his journey in the wine world, and tasted some wonderful wines.

Dror Engelstein’s journey began between the bottle and the customer, continued through the soil and vineyard, and now, he is finishing the construction of his winery.

After his military service, Dror worked as a wine waiter in Jerusalem and managed wine departments in several restaurants. About twenty years ago, he co-founded the wine bar Mia Bar with wine and travel expert Guy Haran and began working at the Tzora winery.

Five years later, Dror moved to Italy to study a program that combines grape science and oenology with an internship at Masi Winery in the Valpolicella wine region.

At the end of 2016, Dror returned to his home wine region, Yehuda. He worked at Sea Horse and Sorek wineries and was the winemaker at Ella Valley Winery. In recent years, he has specialized mainly in winery planning and setup, equipment optimization, and implementing correct production processes. As a consultant, he accompanies vineyard owners, winemakers, and wineries.

The Goal: 50,000 Bottles a Year

Dror started producing his first commercial wines in 2019 on a small scale. The volume has grown over the years and now stands at 15,000 bottles a year, while still producing his wines at the Ayalon winery in Givat Yeshayahu.

New vineyard plots have been planted in Givat Yeshayahu, with more planned in the coming years, all in the Yehuda wine region. The new winery, built in a beautiful building in the heart of the vineyards at the entrance to Moshav Givat Yeshayahu, is expected to start operating in October, with a vision of continued growth in the coming years.

"Our goal is to grow around 80 dunams of vineyards around the winery and in our wine region and reach a production volume of about 50,000 bottles in a few years," Dror says.

Growing Without Titles

We started our meeting in a newly planted Chenin Blanc vineyard. The young vines peeked at us with healthy green leaves, surrounded by weeds. Organic growth? I asked. "I grow without titles, but primarily sustainably," was the winemaker's response. "Minimal fertilizers and spraying; I try to keep it as natural as possible."

The grapes Dror uses in his production are the varieties he loves to work with, mainly Rhone Valley varieties: Grenache Blanc, Grenache Noir, Roussanne, Semillon, Viognier, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Chenin Blanc, Carignan, Petit Sirah, as well as Riesling and Cabernet Franc.

Coming Soon: A Visitor Center

The new winery has a large space waiting for tanks, a barrel room, and a finished product room. Alongside these will be a visitor center overlooking the surrounding vineyards and a professional tasting gallery for smaller groups.

Initially, the visitor center will be open only on weekends, where wines can be tasted alongside food like cheeses and cured meats that complement the wines. Plans include "Thursday Bar Nights," featuring collaborations with local beverage producers. "Anything local that we respect," says Dror.

The aim is to add a cultural touch with music and occasional performances, with the goal of eventually being open daily.

Next to Dror is Dori Bar, his right-hand woman, who followed Dror after tasting his Riesling at the first Riesling event. The moment Dror posted an ad needing workers for the harvest, Dori showed up and stayed.

"There will also be a 'sfuso' at the new winery, like in Italy," says Dori. "The idea is to have a tank with house wine where people can come with their small containers or bottles, fill them up, and take them home."

The Price: NIS 110 for All Wines

The winery's wines, including whites, rosé, and reds, are currently sold at a uniform price of 110 shekels, focusing on the customer. The intention is that wine purchases should not be influenced by price considerations but rather by personal taste and preference.

"Let them buy what they love. I'll make more on one wine and less on another, but for those who come to the winery, it should be easy. Hopefully, this will continue to work," Dror says.

Today, the winery produces 60% white and rosé wines and 40% red wines, suitable for a warm country like ours. "The basis of the work is quite traditional; I love the old world," Dror says, "but there are no labels. The goal is to bring the essence of the pure variety to the bottle. To make the wine as right and as good as it should be. That's why there are also experiments with varieties and blends."

How Are You Coping with the War?

"Luckily, on Saturday, October 7th, we were a few days past the harvest. The wines were fermenting. On Saturday morning, I packed up, went to the winery, sorted out some things—temperatures, topping up, and more—realizing I wouldn't be here for a while," Dror says.

After half a year of constant reserve duty with brief breaks, Dror hasn’t fully returned. "During fermentations and at decision-making stages, Dror's partner managed to find him occasionally and brought wine samples to him in bags," Dori shares. "At two in the morning, he sent action instructions via WhatsApp."

Dori continued to manage the wines and assisted with pressing the reds. After a month of reserve duty, Dror took a short leave, worked quickly at the winery, and then went home. "All the work was done knowing I had no idea when I’d return to the winery," he recalls. "Fortunately, most things survived the war well, and some wines were shaped by the events."

Wine at the Center

"When there is proper planning and investment in the winery, work becomes easier. There are many elements in the winery’s design that, although expensive, greatly improve efficiency, requiring less time in the winery."

Dror believes that each worker learns everything so that someone is always available to replace another. "The spirit, style, and atmosphere will remain at the winery even if someone replaces me—it's not about me. Even during the war, the winery managed to handle the absence and receive remote instructions."

The winemaker is not at the center, according to Dror, even though the winemaker makes hundreds of decisions about the wine, from the first harvest decision to selling the wine. The wine itself is what matters.

"Anyone who works with us and wants to be involved in all the work, including agriculture, is welcome. The visitor center staff will be able to answer any question; it is essential not to compromise on expertise, ensuring the customer and visitor experience is complete. It’s crucial that the product is good, but that’s not enough. You must provide the customer with a complete experience."

All of Underdog Winery's wines have a common thread. They are dry, balanced, complex, interesting, full of character, with high acidity that isn't overpowering. These wines are perfect with food but can also be enjoyed on their own.

Underdog, Chenin Blanc 2020

We tasted this wine in front of the Chenin Blanc vineyard. It was Dror Engelstein's first creation, made from grapes in the Givat Yeshayahu vineyard, owned by Sphera Winery. A fresh, balanced wine with pleasant and joyful sour fruit. Later, the 'White Swallow' became a blend.

Underdog Winery, Riesling 2022

Riesling grapes from Kerem Ben Zimra. An aromatic and sharp Riesling, floral and fruity alongside clean and refreshing minerality. A great wine that I loved at the Riesling event at Sphera Winery.

Underdog Winery, Semillon 2023

Semillon grapes from a vineyard in Gush Etzion produced a sharp, mineral wine with a light sea saltiness and a richness of aromas. Perfect for the Israeli summer.

Underdog Winery, White Swallow 2023

Roussanne, Semillon, and Grenache Blanc grapes were fermented and aged separately in different used barrels, some on the lees. An aromatic and enticing wine, quite full-bodied and complex, with good acidity.

Underdog Winery, Rosé 2022

Grenache Noir from Arad Heights and Marselan from Givat Yeshayahu. A classic rosé with a copper hue, rich in flavors and aromas, complex, fruity, floral, and very balanced. A gastronomic wine.

Underdog Winery, Grenache Noir 2023

The grapes came from a vineyard in Gush Etzion. Young and light Grenache, fresh and sharp, best served chilled in the summer, pairs wonderfully with food or on its own. A charming summer wine, perfect for the beach, pool, or terrace.

Underdog Winery, Snunit Red 2022

A blend of Syrah, Grenache, and a hint of Oseleta, an Italian grape variety originally from the Valpolicella region, on which Dror wrote his thesis in Italy. A complex and unique wine, full of layers, with prominent acidity and tannins.