The wristwatch climbs up and settles on the neck
From Rihanna and Taylor Swift to Emma Chamberlain, San Mizrahi, and Noa Kirel, wristwatches are migrating up the body and settling on the neck this season.
From Rihanna and Taylor Swift to Emma Chamberlain, San Mizrahi, and Noa Kirel, wristwatches are migrating up the body and settling on the neck this season.
The credit for inventing the unconventional trend of wearing a wristwatch as a choker goes to none other than Rihanna. In June 2023, during Paris Men’s Fashion Week, the pop star and businesswoman sat front row at Pharrell Williams’ debut show as Louis Vuitton’s creative director. Clad in pixelated denim by the French fashion house, she wore a diamond-encrusted watch not on her wrist but around her neck. This was no ordinary watch; it was a custom-designed, 18-karat gold piece set with 30 carats of baguette-cut diamonds and an additional 338 brilliant-cut diamonds, crafted with luxury label Jacob & Co for the occasion, valued at $670,000. As usual, Rihanna stole the spotlight, shining bright like a diamond—368 of them, to be exact.
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"Preparing for the fashion event, Rihanna decided to wear a watch in a completely different way," Jacob & Co said in a press release. "She came to us with the concept, as she has done many times before." With a flick of her wrist, Rihanna traded the functionality of a wristwatch for its captivating visual appeal, birthing a new trend.
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It's unclear where Rihanna got the inspiration to challenge the concept of timepieces, and despite our efforts to trace the trend's origins, it remains a mystery. Chokers, or collars, have been fashion statements for affluent women since the Victorian era and even earlier. The first historical documentation dates back to around 1533, in portraits of Anne Boleyn, Queen of England, wearing a close-fitting pearl necklace with a pendant 'B.'
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Later, during the French Revolution in 1789, women wore red ribbons around their necks to honor those lost to the guillotine. In the 1863 painting "Olympia" by Édouard Manet, a prostitute is depicted wearing a ribbon around her neck, linking chokers to prostitution in the 19th century. Queen Victoria and Princess Alexandra of Wales popularized chokers to the point where they defined fashion for 50 years. The trend continued into the 1920s with various materials like velvet, lace, pearls, and diamonds joining the mix.
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Another forward-thinking fashionista who embraced the trend after Rihanna was YouTuber, podcaster, and internet personality Emma Chamberlain. She appeared at the Miu Miu fashion show in October 2023 with a gold Cartier Mini Baignoire watch around her neck. Other influencers like Singaporean reality star Mae Tan and model Tobi Ogundipe soon followed. However, Taylor Swift made the trend go viral. Everything she touches turns to gold, quite literally.
In February, Taylor graced the 66th Grammy Awards red carpet in a stunning black-and-white ensemble by Schiaparelli, complete with a corset gown and black velvet opera gloves. Her diamond-laden necklaces, including a Concord art deco watch converted into a custom black diamond choker by Lorraine Schwartz, stole the show.
Taylor’s choices are never random; it seemed the watch was set to midnight, referencing her album "Midnights." When she released her 11th album, "The Tortured Poets Department," two months later, it was clear this was a deliberate nod to her idol Clara Bow, a 1920s Hollywood star known for her bobbed hair, thin eyebrows, cocktail dresses, and beloved chokers.
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Following Taylor's lead, many fans and Swifties adopted the trend. Recently, it has reached our shores, adorning the necks of local celebrities. In May, San Mizrahi graced the 11th edition of HOMMEGIRLS magazine dripping in Chanel jewelry. Her stylist chose to accessorize her neck with a "Premiere" model watch featuring a Chanel leather strap, a homage to one of the fashion house's first watches.
Lastly, Noa Kirel appeared at Adidas' major Euro event earlier this month with a pair of sparkling vintage watches around her neck. They complemented her ensemble by Aya Letser, a Shenkar College graduate and BIAAF design award winner, consisting of a corset, playful shorts, and thigh-high boots made from 60 pairs of Adidas shoes. Styled by Tom Rousilio, with a high ponytail by hair designer Adir Yaakov, Noa shone brightly.
A few tips to nail this trend: avoid overly massive watches, though Noa Kirel proved it's possible. Opt for a vintage watch with a small case that already looks like jewelry. Until brands create dedicated choker watches, you'll need to improvise by extending the strap to fit your neck. Good luck!
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