Three wines that challenge the mainstream

If the intensity of the holiday season wasn't enough, the past few days have brought an overwhelming amount of events. As I opened bottle after bottle—whether to celebrate or to pass the time waiting for responses from our side and theirs, and back again—I wondered if we’d ever live in the middle ground again instead of at the extremes. I didn’t have an answer, but the wine in my glass was comforting enough for the moment.

I drank three interesting bottles this week, all of them from the extremes, just like our lives. Each one comes from wineries that don't always get the attention they deserve, and that’s a shame. Two are from small local producers, and the third is a mid-sized winery that has recently faced Hezbollah’s threats.

Let’s start with the latter. Netofa Winery, a place we stop by each year during our holiday trip to the Lower Galilee with family, produces wines I love, particularly one from the Tel Qassar series that I follow every year.

The Moursir 2021 is an unconventional blend of 90% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah, resulting in a ripe, tasty, light, and very pleasant wine. It’s perfect for red wine lovers who don’t like heavy wines. If I were sitting by the Kinneret during the Sharqiya winds, I’d definitely open this bottle.

Price: NIS 130 

I first encountered Tzlil Oblass’ wines a little over two years ago when he had just started selling them in Israel. Just like in music, where the mainstream exists on one end, the middle somewhere in between, and indie artists thrive at the far edge, Oblass' wines have a distinct touch unlike anything I’ve ever tasted.

When I met him before the holiday, he insisted that I taste his Italian wines (from Piemonte and Puglia) in the order he believed was right, rather than the typical sequence. I never argue with artists.

Consider this a broad recommendation for all his wines, but specifically, I want to highlight the Alpinia, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling from the Italian Alps, with a unique Israeli twist.

This wine is mineral-rich, refreshing, sharp, and each sip takes you on a journey from one extreme to the other, much like Israel itself—but in a good way.

Price: NIS 80 

I first met winemaker Rami Na'aman through his film work. It was in Ramot Naftali, at his winery next to his charming home, where he lives with his wife, Bettina, back when it was still possible to travel there. I had the chance to taste a few wines before I even fell in love with wine.

A few weeks ago, I met Rami again. His winery has since won many awards, and I tasted his wines again, this time as someone who’s already had quite a few bottles in her life.

His wines are for true wine lovers, those who appreciate the classics but don’t mind a twist. While hoping that the residents of Ramot Naftali and the north can return home soon, I want to recommend the Black Velvet, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. I liked it then (I’ve always been a red wine woman), and I still like it now.

Price: NIS 120