White wines for the holidays: Shop like the experts

As I write these lines, it’s still hard to say what awaits us this Rosh Hashanah. With half the country either displaced or confined indoors due to Home Front Command directives, this holiday feels particularly difficult to process.

If there’s a silver lining, I hope that just as COVID boosted the broader consumption of Israeli wine, this war might similarly increase interest in local wines. This past week, more businesses have joined the growing list of those affected, including wineries, restaurants, and other enterprises that usually see the holiday season as one of the busiest times of the year. I love wine—not just Israeli wines—but this year, I’m making a point to keep all my holiday alcohol strictly blue and white.

Last week, I tried to unlock the secret to choosing red wines for holiday meals amidst the wide selection of varieties. Since white wine is especially popular in Israel, I think it's time for a brief guide in this genre as well. So, what are the differences between Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Roussanne, Chenin Blanc, and Pinot Gris, and what on earth should we drink during the long holiday weekend ahead?

There’s something magical about white wine, and in my opinion—perhaps not the most expert, but somewhat knowledgeable—there’s no need to go overboard with white wines. You can find great bottles for 30 shekels and excellent ones for 80.

Who Called It Astringency?

Wine is often described using terms that don't mean much to the casual drinker. Aromatic, fruity, this finish, that finish—what does it all mean?

Some wines have a citrusy flavor or a hint of peach, for example, or the taste of biting into a crisp apple. Others leave behind not an overt sweetness, but a lingering hint of a sweet aftertaste. These are aromatic and fruity wines, which, by the way, can also be dry if you were wondering.

Riesling, which became the star of this past summer, is a great example in this category, along with Gewürztraminer (for those who love their wine sweet) and Pinot Gris, which is also my go-to picnic or beach wine.

Leading White Varieties

Classic Chardonnay can come in various forms and flavors. You can’t really go wrong with Chardonnay—it embodies everything you expect. It can be complex and deep, sometimes oaky, sometimes less so. Even if you've tasted one you didn't love, don’t dismiss it; you haven’t tried them all, and it's always worth trying again.

Sauvignon Blanc is sharper and more herbaceous, with a higher acidity that makes it incredibly food-friendly. Chenin Blanc was the star of last summer, with its fruity lightness and crispness, which also makes it perfect for hot climates. Personally, I always grab a Chenin Blanc first. Viognier or Roussanne, on the other hand, I’d recommend for those with a more refined palate. If you happen upon a good one, it’s the perfect companion for a meal.

What to Drink: Under NIS 100, Because Our Credit Rating Dropped

Chenin Blanc: For those like me who fell in love with this grape variety or are looking to try it: Binyamina Winery’s Shva, Chenin Blanc (NIS 85), Tabor Winery’s Chenin Blanc, sourced from vineyards in Mitzpe Ramon (NIS 59), and Nana Winery in the south, which produces a perfect Chenin Blanc (NIS 100).

Sauvignon Blanc: Recanati Winery, Galilee Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc (NIS 65), Darom Lavan from Yatir Winery, Yiron Sauvignon Blanc from Galil Mountain Winery (NIS 100). Pelter Winery in the north produces a Sauvignon Blanc (NIS 82), Adama Sauvignon Blanc from Tabor Winery (NIS 59), and Dalton Winery’s Estate, Fumé Blanc (NIS 65).

Chardonnay: The safest bet for Chardonnay is Golan Heights Winery’s Yarden Chardonnay (NIS 65), Carmel Winery’s Private Collection Chardonnay (NIS 45—a great value), and Teperberg Winery’s Essence Chardonnay (NIS 75).

For the Advanced and Sweet Wine Lovers

Viognier Volcanic from the northern Har Odem Winery (NIS 90), Carmel Winery’s Single Vineyards Riesling (NIS 100), and Masah Israeli Lavan from Vitkin Winery, a delightful blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Viognier (NIS 80).

For those who love sweet wines—like my wonderful parents: Recanati Winery’s Franz Blend (Muscato and Sauvignon Blanc—NIS 80) or Teperberg Winery’s Vision White Semi-Dry (30 shekels). Both bottles will also be appreciated by wine snobs.