Yaacov Oryah: One of the best white wines produced in Israel today

Yaacov Oryah is a winemaker at the commercial Pinto Winery in Yeruham, and for years, he has been making wines at his personal winery, which bears his name. One foot is planted in a Mediterranean approach, choosing the varieties, while the other explores the potential of each. For example, many of his wines undergo skin contact and are orange wines. However, orange wine in the minds of wine lovers is often associated with funkiness. Oryah’s orange wines may not be friendly to the untrained palate; they do not flaunt fruit and floral aromas, yet they are far from funky. The broad range of aromas and flavors inherent in each variety is clearly expressed.

Alongside the orange wines, represented in this tasting by two excellent wines—a varietal Gewürztraminer and Melchizedek, an aged white blend—there are two whites: “The Quiet Hunter,” a delicate and delicious blend, and “Playground, Chardonnay 2021,” a wine whose grapes underwent no fewer than 13 fermentations. It stands out among Israeli white wines. There is also “Hand of Man,” a highly gastronomic red blend, perfect even for summer, and an excellent sweet orange dessert wine based on Gewürztraminer.

These are not cheap wines. Such invested work is not intended for supermarket sales of three for NIS 120. However, given the investment and quality, the pricing is restrained and reasonable (you can buy them here). All the wines reviewed here are worth drinking now. Most have excellent aging potential. Cheers!

Yaacov Oryah, The Human Touch 2021

A red blend based on 36% Syrah, 33% Merlot, 18% Grenache, and 13% Mourvèdre from Shadma, Judean Hills. The Merlot is from the Golan Heights. Aged for one year in non-new oak barrels. Light ruby red. On the nose, red fruit and spices. Medium body. 13.5% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 120.

Best Paired With: Lamb chops, lamb stews, steaks.

Critic's Note: Not overly heavy red fruit, almost refreshing. Dominant, precise acidity. Spices as a supporting element, not leading. Slight lightness, suitable for summer sipping, even in the current heat.

Value for Money: 3.5/5 (Good).

Yaacov Oryah, Alpha Omega, Gewürztraminer 2021

An orange wine based on 100% Gewürztraminer from the Golan Heights. The grapes were fermented on their skins and saw no oak. Bright orange color. Intense tropical fruit and spices on the nose. Medium body. 13% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 120.

Best Paired With: Seafood, shellfish, white meats, Asian food.

Critic's Note: Concentrated exotic fruitiness typical of the variety, originating from Alsace. However, unlike semi-dry “Gewürz” wines, the dryness here is intense, sharp, and prominent, as is the minerality. Tasting this unique wine is a process. It begins with a closed fist, almost deterring those unaccustomed to such wines. Gradually, the fan unfolds, fully present after 45 minutes to an hour. A wine whose palate experience is truly dialectical, existing in the tension between fruit characteristics, dryness, and minerality. Fascinating, enriching, and excellent.

Value for Money: 4.5/5 (Excellent).

Yaacov Oryah, The Silent Hunter 2020

67% Sémillon and 33% Chenin Blanc from Shadma, Judean Hills. Early harvest. Separate fermentation in stainless steel for the different varieties. No use of oak. Light golden color. Aromatic nose. Light-medium body. 11.5% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 140.

Best Paired With: Ceviche, carpaccio, and fish tartare; fish in olive oil and butter sauces, seafood, shellfish.

Critic's Note: A wine whose strength lies in its restraint. The aromatic profile sets the main tone, with pleasant but subdued fruit, and acidity that develops gradually after opening. A wine with high culinary potential, whose moderate alcohol content is positively noticeable. Like its predecessors, it needs time and decanting to express its full breadth, so it's advisable to open it ahead of time.

Value for Money: 3.5/5 (Good).

Yaacov Oryah, Playground Chardonnay 2021

100% Chardonnay from a single vineyard in Merom Golan, northern Golan Heights. Production is based on 13 different fermentations—in tanks, barrels, on skins, and carbonic fermentation, from early and late harvests. After all these, the final blend is created. Light golden color. Very mineral nose. Medium body. 12% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 180.

Best Paired With: Cheeses, fish, seafood, white meats, shellfish.

Critic's Note: Thirteen fermentations, no less, in one wine. For such adventures, there is Yaacov Oryah and his "Playground." The range of expression here captures all the possibilities of the variety. It is marked by minerality, sharp acidity, and richness on one hand, and restraint on the other. A truly high-quality, fascinating Chardonnay.

Value for Money: 3.5/5 (Good. Expensive but superb).

Yaacov Oryah, Melchizedek 2018

An orange wine based on 40% Viognier from Kfar Tavor, Lower Galilee, 30% Roussanne from Safsufa, Upper Galilee, and 30% Sémillon from Shadma, Judean Hills. Aged for one year in non-new oak barrels. Light orange color. Citrus on the nose, noticeable minerality, slight herbaceousness. 12.5% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 160.

Best Paired With: Fish, seafood, and shellfish. Dishes based on veal and pork.

Critic's Note: Complex, multi-dimensional, full of nuances. Far from being friendly at first sip for those unfamiliar with the genre. Needs at least an hour to soften and open up. A wine that avoids funkiness, with super-smart and restrained use of oak. Important not to drink it too cold; it’s best when slightly warmer. An excellent wine for connoisseurs.

Value for Money: 2.5/5 (Realistic).

Yaacov Oryah, Alpha Omega G, SMLH 2022

A sweet orange dessert wine based on 100% Gewürztraminer from Gush Etzion, harvested late at a very high ripeness level, with fruit shriveling and increased sugar levels. Fermented on skins. Orange color. Concentrated and ripe fruit on the nose. Light-medium body. 11% alcohol by volume.

Price: NIS 120 for 500 ml.

Best Paired With: Desserts, spicy cheeses, spicy Asian food, quality dark chocolate.

Critic's Note: A dessert wine with a degree of lightness, its sweetness restrained, with dimensions of complexity and clear nuances.

Value for Money: 3.5/5 (Good).