Sapphire Cohen Ben Zvi: Israel's unicorn jeweler

“Jewelry is not just an accessory,” says Sapphire Cohen Ben Zvi, founder and head of MyGemma, the Tel Aviv-based firm that makes handcrafted gold jewelry with natural diamonds and gemstones: “It’s a form of self-expression and a way for individuals to convey their emotions and experiences.”

Growing up as the oldest child in a family steeped in diamond and jewelry design, the 31-year-old designer has been familiar with the world of jewelry and diamonds since she was a child. “Whether my siblings and I liked it or not, the language within the Cohen household was all about diamonds, gemstones, fashion, and jewelry making,” she recalls with a smile. “I grew up with workaholic parents who live and breathe the world of gems and jewelry.”

Sapphire was born and raised in Bangkok by Israeli parents who relocated to Thailand in the 1990s. Her father has been a diamond merchant for almost 40 years, and her mother is a jewelry designer specializing in high couture and one-of-a-kind pieces.

Today, their daughter is considered one of Israel’s up-and-coming young jewelers.

Fluent in English, Hebrew, and Thai, Sapphire attended a British International school in Bangkok. Her parents raised her and her two younger brothers with a strong Jewish and Israeli identity, though they were a distinct minority in Thailand. 

“My parents maintained Israeli culture and Jewish traditions in our household,” she relates. “Whether that be watching only Israeli TV news, [eating] Israeli snacks and treats, and conversing in Hebrew – it most certainly helped ingrain the Jewish Israeli tradition that shapes the person I am today,” she says. 

It wasn’t easy growing up in a traditional Jewish household in Thailand and having to explain to her friends that she couldn’t attend shows with them on Friday evenings or having to miss school on Jewish holidays. “I always felt different and didn’t feel a part of something from a nationalistic and traditional point of view,” she says.

SAPPHIRE GRADUATED from high school in 2010 and opted to make aliyah and join the IDF. She attributed her decision, in part, to the antisemitism that she experienced in her final year of high school. 

“Being the only Jewish Israeli girl in a school with almost 3,000 students really built up anger and fire inside of me to want to go serve my country in the military and give back to Israel,” she notes. “Making aliyah was definitely an unconventional decision which most of my peers and teachers did not seem to grasp.”

After arriving in Israel, Sapphire served for two years in the IDF as an Air Force spokesperson. “I was basically the face of the central base of the Air Force, which then was at Sde Dov, where very important people would come to visit, and I would have to show them around alongside our pilots,” she says.

In 2023, Sapphire founded MyGemma, which specializes in fashioning handcrafted gold jewelry with natural diamonds and gemstones. The company has teams in Israel and Thailand that bring her creations to life. “My main goal is to craft exquisite jewelry that seamlessly blends luxury with everyday elegance,” she says. “My world of jewelry is where luxury meets everyday wear, where diamonds and gemstones come together to create timeless and trendy pieces.”

In addition to MyGemma’s work in creating original pieces, the company recently launched its MyRefresh® service, which allows customers to breathe new life into their jewelry collection by bringing in existing pieces, whether inherited or personally owned, for a transformative redesign. 

MyGemma can create an entirely new design while utilizing the same gemstones and recycling the precious metal to create a modern design tailored to the customer’s desires. Sapphire explains that creating new designs from existing jewelry not only preserves and recycles previously owned jewelry but also enables customers to honor the sentimental value of their jewelry by giving a new life to their cherished designs.

ONE OF the hallmarks of MyGemma, Sapphire says, is its commitment to educating customers about gemstones and making them more accessible. “We take pride in offering a range of our designs at a great price point without compromising on the quality of our materials and jewelry,” she says. “We can do this because of our links to Thailand, which is considered the gem capital of the world. In Thailand, we are able to source virtually all of the gems available in the world and are also able to utilize ancient artisan techniques in jewelry manufacturing, where each piece is meticulously crafted with attention to detail.”

Sapphire particularly enjoys creating and designing statement pieces. She designed the Unicorn ring worn by Noa Kirel at the Eurovision song contest in May 2023, showcasing her abilities to a worldwide audience. “Creating the Unicorn ring was a dream come true. The pride I had in being able to intertwine my passion and skill for jewelry and, at the same time, my love and patriotic feelings for Israel was an unforgettable memory,” states Sapphire. 

“Recognizing the significance of staying connected to one’s roots and upbringing is crucial in today’s globalized society. I jump on every opportunity to proudly represent my country.”

For Sapphire, this applies to the difficult times of today. “The current situation is undoubtedly a challenging time for our nation,” she says. “However, I believe that in times of crisis, we are stronger when we stand as one. It is so important how we unite in the face of adversity, and it is the only way we are able to get past such a period as a country. I believe everyone has to do their part as best they can.”

In the spirit of support for her homeland, MyGemma has created a custom collection of eternity rings in blue, white, and yellow. The blue and white colors represent Israel, and yellow represents the hostages being held in Gaza. Proceeds from the sales of the eternity rings support IDF soldiers fighting in the Gaza Strip.

“In times of conflict, the fragility of life becomes more apparent, and the importance of cherishing moments with our loved ones becomes paramount,” Sapphire asserts. “People tend to find solace and meaning in their relationships and have an increased desire for commitment and connection, leading to a noticeable trend of engagement and marriages. 

“As a jewelry designer, I am inspired by the resilience of our people in Israel and the innate human desire to find joy amidst adversity,” the jewelry redesigner says. “It is my hope that through the artistry of jewelry, we will be able to celebrate love and commitment, reinforcing the idea that even in the face of adversity, life and love prevail.”

What are her plans for the future? “I want to continue breaking boundaries through endless innovation, beautifully craft pieces that embody both visual allure and personal significance, and allow women and men of all ages to stand out and make a statement with unique, fashion-forward jewelry.

“Jewelry is a treasure that lasts from one generation to another,” Sapphire concludes, “and being a part of someone’s story is just the most incredible feeling in the world.” ■

Contact MyGemma: www.instagram.com/my__gemma