Bayit Vagan: The garden oasis of Jerusalem

“Build houses and settle down; plant gardens and eat what they produce.” (Jeremiah 29:5)

Bayit Vagan, a vibrant neighborhood in southwest Jerusalem, is nestled to the east of Mount Herzl, bordering Kiryat HaYovel and Givat Mordechai. The name “Bayit Vagan” derives from the Hebrew phrase “house and garden,” reflecting the original vision for the neighborhood’s dwellings.

A brief history

Bayit Vagan has the distinction of being the third neighborhood established in western Jerusalem. The Bayit Vagan Association, founded in 1920, sought to create a neighborhood with a National Religious character. Prominent figures such as Rabbi Yosef Mordechai HaLevi, Rabbi Avraham-Chaim Shag, Yerachmiel Amdursky, attorney Aharon Mani, and Binyamin Kokia led this initiative. 

Initially, the neighborhood was planned to consist of 70 private houses, each featuring a private ornamental garden, similar to the garden neighborhood of Beit Hakerem.

By 1921, the association had registered 250 members and began purchasing land from the surrounding villages of Ein Kerem and Al-Malha. Construction started in 1926, resulting in the completion of 25 houses on Rabbi Kook Street (now Bayit Vagan Street), including the Great Sephardi Synagogue. 

In 1929, the B’nai B’rith neighborhood was established by members of B’nai B’rith at the highest point in the area. This period also saw the erection of a water tower with the organization’s assistance. Rabbi Shmuel Eliezeri, appointed as the neighborhood’s first rabbi in 1930, was among its founders. However, during the 1929 riots, the neighborhood faced attacks, leading to the evacuation of residents and widespread looting.

Initially isolated from other city neighborhoods, Bayit Vagan marked the western boundary of Jerusalem upon its establishment. The land purchase for the neighborhood’s construction was completed in 1932, when Yehuda Steinberg acquired land from the Aysha family of Ein Kerem, intended for a monastery.

Following Israel’s War of Independence in 1948, Bayit Vagan experienced a building boom driven by members of the Pagi (Poalei Agudat Israel – Israel Workers’ Association) movement. At the neighborhood’s southern end, a quarry was transformed into a central water reservoir serving all of west Jerusalem.

A unique neighborhood

Bayit Vagan’s name reflects its early building style, where each house had an open garden area. HaPisgah Street, the main thoroughfare, was the highest in Jerusalem at 836 meters (the street’s name means “summit”) until the construction of the Gilo neighborhood. In its early years, Angel Bakery operated on Bayit Vagan Street until it relocated to Givat Shaul in 1959. 

By 1935, industrial plants began to emerge in Bayit Vagan, such as the Teva and Ara pharmaceutical factories; the Sidis brothers’ Nofet candy factory; Epstein Printing; the Weinberg family’s Land of Israel Cookie Factory; a marble factory; and the Dong Or match factory.

Today, most of the original houses have been demolished, leaving only a few that reflect the neighborhood’s original garden-style homes.

The modern neighborhood has seen a significant influx of haredi (ultra-Orthodox) residents. The population as of 2022 was 22,265, including 2,713 over age 65 and some 10,000 under 18.

Historical and cultural significance

Bayit Vagan’s history is rich, as demonstrated by significant archaeological and historical finds. A 4,000-year-old cemetery and numerous Canaanite artifacts discovered in the neighborhood highlight its ancient roots. During the Crusader period, the Orthodox monastery of Mar Saba owned a farmstead in the area.

During the British Mandate, the army built a radar station on what is now the site of Beit Knesset Migdal – the Tower Synagogue. A model of the Second Temple, designed by Prof. Michael Avi-Yonah, was displayed at the Holyland Hotel until it was moved to the Israel Museum in 2006.

Amenities and facilities

The influx of haredi residents to the neighborhood has seen Bayit Vagan host a plethora of schools and Jewish religious institutions, including Ateret Yisrael Yeshiva; Kol Torah Yeshiva; Netivot Chochma Yeshiva; Yeshiva University’s Gruss Kollel and Torat Tziyon program; Yeshivat Torat Shraga; Tiferet Yerushalayim; Michlalah Jerusalem College for Women; Seminar Yerushalayim HaChadash; Yad Harav Herzog; Himmelfarb High School; Boys Town Jerusalem; and Netiv Meir Yeshiva High School. The Amshinover Rebbe has his court on Rabbi Frank Street. The Boyar School, a secular high school for gifted students, is located there as well.

At the entrance to the neighborhood are a hotel and a retirement home, and on its southern edge is the Holyland project. The Shalom Hotel, once home to Radio Jerusalem’s studios, is another notable establishment. 

Shaare Zedek Medical Center is situated at the entrance to Bayit Vagan, providing vital healthcare services. The neighborhood is also home to the Beitar Jerusalem soccer club’s practice field.

Additionally, in the vicinity are Mount Herzl, Yad Vashem, and Ein Kerem, with its stunning views and forests.Bayit Vagan’s blend of history within modern Jerusalem and its location on the outskirts of the city make it an attractive neighborhood for residents and visitors alike, providing plenty of space for them to stroll, and reflecting the city’s diverse heritage and dynamic growth.■

Est. Population: 23,000

Avg. Real Estate: 

House (buy): NIS 5.1 million

Apt. (rent): NIS 6,000/mo.