Har Nof: Jerusalem's neighborhood of panoramas and piety

Har Nof, perched majestically on the hills of west Jerusalem, is a neighborhood that encapsulates both the enduring spirit and the complex history of the city. 

With its name translating as “scenic mountain,” Har Nof  – which has an elevation ranging from 690 to 810 meters – provides panoramic views of the verdant Jerusalem Forest and, on clear days, stretches out to the Judean Mountains and Beit Shemesh. This high vantage point is more than a scenic delight; it embodies the blend of ancient and modern narratives that define Har Nof.

The roots of Har Nof trace back to the late 1970s, with its establishment gaining momentum in the 1980s. Originally designed to attract young couples and families – both secular and religious – it quickly became a beacon for those seeking affordable yet spacious housing near Jerusalem’s bustling heart.

The area chosen for Har Nof included the historic site of Deir Yassin, a village with profound significance due to the events of Israel’s 1948 War of Independence, when its Arab residents fled amid the conflict.

Architect Ze’ev Sheinberg masterminded the design, aiming for functionality that accommodated the hilly terrain. Construction commenced in 1980, and by 1985, despite initial setbacks, such as prolonged infrastructure development and delays in connecting the neighborhood to the electrical grid, the first residents moved in. 

A tragic incident marked its early years: In 1988, the collapse of a partially constructed residential building brought safety issues to the forefront, prompting increased scrutiny and regulations on building standards.

The current population of Har Nof is 17,909 residents, according to the latest figures published this month by the Jerusalem Municipality. This includes 6,483 residents under the age of 18, and 2,454 over the age of 65.

IN ITS formative years, Har Nof was home to a diverse population that included secular and National Religious residents. However, by the late 1980s a demographic shift began, driven largely by the influx of haredi families. Influential figures like Arye Deri, a key member of the Shas political party, and Rabbi Ovadia Yosef, the party’s spiritual leader, significantly impacted the neighborhood’s makeup. 

The founding of religious institutions such as the Maor Yisrael Association solidified Har Nof’s identity as a stronghold of haredi life. By the 2000s, Har Nof was synonymous with religious devotion, its streets lined with synagogues and yeshivot that catered to a range of Jewish traditions.

Har Nof’s reputation as a center of religious study is well established. Yeshivat Pachad Yitzchak, led by Rabbi Yonatan David, is a prominent local Lithuanian yeshiva known for its rigorous scholarship. This institution, among others, contributes to Har Nof’s standing as a hub for high-level Torah learning. Another notable establishment is Yeshivat Dvar Yerushalayim, which emphasizes outreach and deep Talmudic study. It was originally located in Sanhedria and moved to Har Nof in 1997.

Women’s education also thrives in Har Nof. The Neve Yerushalayim seminary has been instrumental in providing a robust religious curriculum for women returning to Orthodox practice, blending traditional teachings with contemporary life skills. This seminary, along with a variety of local schools and kindergartens, fosters a comprehensive educational environment for all ages.

Community life in Har Nof revolves around shared religious and social experiences. The neighborhood’s streets are dotted with bustling synagogues that host vibrant Shabbat and weekday services. A prime example is Kehillat Bnei Torah, which gained international attention in 2014 when a brutal attack during morning prayers left five worshipers and a responding police officer dead. This tragedy resonated deeply within Israel and the global Jewish community, reinforcing Har Nof’s resilience and unity in the face of adversity.

The neighborhood’s layout reflects its steep terrain, with staircases connecting streets at different levels, and buildings often featuring entrances on both higher and lower streets. These unique architectural adaptations facilitate communal interaction and create a closely-knit atmosphere, where residents frequently gather at shared spaces like parks and playgrounds.

THE LAND under the Har Nof neighborhood holds stories that predate its modern existence. Archaeological evidence suggests that the area was once part of an active Second Temple-period settlement, complete with terraces used for grape cultivation and stone wine presses carved into the hillside. 

On Chai Taib Street, remnants of a fortress and a small water reservoir have been uncovered. Scholars believe these structures served as guard posts for pilgrims heading to the Temple, underscoring the site’s ancient role as a way point for worshipers.

A Roman road known as The Ascent of the Romans winds north of the neighborhood. This three-km. path, marked by a 200-m. elevation gain, linked Motza to Jerusalem, and formed part of the larger route between Emmaus and Jerusalem. During the British Mandate period, youth groups often used this historical road to symbolize the journey to Jerusalem, echoing the sense of purpose and determination that continues in Har Nof’s modern community.

The evolution of Har Nof’s infrastructure reflects Jerusalem’s broader urban development. Road 16, inaugurated in 2019, significantly improved access by linking the Motza Interchange on Highway 1 to the neighborhood through a tunnel, making it a vital corridor for residents and commuters. The light rail extension project, designed initially as part of the Red Line and later integrated into the Green Line, promises to further enhance connectivity by linking Har Nof with major points across Jerusalem.

Despite its growth and strong community ties, Har Nof has faced challenges, particularly in urban planning and expansion efforts. For decades, debates over expanding the neighborhood into sections of the Jerusalem Forest and relocating the Pi Glilot fuel depot have stalled significant housing projects. While the Israel Land Authority has pursued plans for 2,300 new residential units since 2018, balancing development with environmental preservation remains a contentious issue.

Today, Har Nof stands as proof of the dynamic interplay of history, faith, and modern urban life. Its steep streets, lined with yeshivot, synagogues, and the homes of haredi leaders, echo with the rhythms of daily Jewish practice. The legacy of scholars and the vibrant fabric of community life all blend seamlessly in Har Nof, making it a place where Jerusalem’s past and present coexist.■

What’s in a name?

In 2020, controversy erupted over the name of the neighborhood. 

In November of that year, Jerusalem Mayor Moshe Lion had ordered the name be changed from Har Nof to Neot Yosef, after former Sephardi chief rabbi and Shas spiritual leader Rabbi Ovadia Yosef, who passed away in 2013.

A central group that led the fight against the name change responded to the decision to cancel the change, saying, “The heads of the protest, with the backup and sympathy of thousands of residents, fought day and night. Time after time, heavy pressure was placed on them from the municipality and from outside [the municipality], and with the aid of heaven they got through them all.”

Residents were outraged by Lion’s original announcement about the name change, claiming the municipality did not consult them or their representatives before making the decision. The municipality ignored their opinions about the change, they said, adding that they also did not like the logistical issues, such as changing mailing addresses.

The neighborhood ultimately kept its name after the municipality’s naming committee voted unanimously to cancel the change proposed by Lion and approved by the committee.