Giuseppina – an old-world trattoria in Jerusalem - review

Giuseppa Strepponi, affectionately known as Giuseppina, was a distinguished soprano from Lombardy whose formidable presence significantly contributed to the acclaim of the illustrious 19th-century composer Giuseppe Verdi. Later, becoming his devoted partner, she captivated audiences with her “limpid, penetrating, smooth voice, poised stage presence, and exquisite figure.”

A classical 1860s portrait of this seated, adorned beauty, lost in contemplation, now graces the entrance of Giuseppina, a newly established Italian restaurant, the most recent iteration of a Jerusalemite safe haven for non-kosher, dining-out-on Shabbat minorities.

The concept of which is, for lack of more optimistic wording, withering away like the roses in Beauty and The Beast losing their petals. It even replaces the space once belonging to Adom, its cousin of the non-kosher disposition, which used to be in the First Station and has moved to Hillel Street. The complex is evidently desperately trying to retain its remaining secular vestiges and beaconisms.

The restaurant is run by Nitzan Sadan and Nadav Cohen, an Israeli couple. It’s ironic that they operate with the same dynamic of Giuseppina and her husband, Verdi. Nitzan, with vibrant charisma, commands the stage and is the first face guests encounter upon entry. Nadav, meanwhile, works behind the scenes, orchestrating the culinary symphony with recipes handed down from his Italian brother-in-law. 

After a decade in London, where they presided over two restaurants (one, apparently, frequented by the Chelsea Football Club roster), and a successful venture in Tenerife, the largest of Spain’s Canary Islands, they have returned to Jerusalem to inaugurate Giuseppina.

You really can expect to see some odes to Italian classics on the menu, albeit done a tad more palatable for Israeli tongues. The starters (antipasti) has its share of simple seafood dishes, oftentimes inspired by a coastal Italian idea of letting the freshly caught seafood shine without too much background noise. 

Calamari Fritti (fried calamari, 62 NIS), Shrimp Fra Diavolo (in a white wine and tomato sauce, 68 NIS), and Zuppa di Cozze (garlicky tomato steamed mussels, 64 NIS) are classics. They are joined by a Tricolore insalata (A cheeky take on the Italian flag colors in the form of tomatoes, avocado, mozzarella and a balsamic reduction), and a Caesar salad (Which was actually created by an Italian chef in Tijuana, Mexico, so culinary heritage disputes may apply).

The restaurant remains a work in progress. The pastas, for example, are not made from scratch there (the reasoning, according to Nitzan, is because store-bought pasta incorporates the sauce and “wears” it better). Conceptually, Nadav demonstrates a solid grasp on Italian cuisine. The meat lasagna is steamy and creamy, and the grilled sea bream (124 NIS) has near-perfect skin side crust. 

Nonetheless, there is room for refinement. A sharper focus on crafting distinctive, memorable dishes rather than merely accommodating Israeli tastes – an approach that feels somewhat outdated – could enhance the dining experience.

The desserts – a limoncello with vanilla ice cream and an affogato – were a real bright spot in the meal, as was an excellent, improvised mulled wine after we had asked for a warm cocktail. 

The potential is palpable, and Nadav thinks the restaurant could eventually begin preparing more items in-house in the future. I’ll cross my fingers.

Warm service 

But even the most melodramatic Italian mother could appreciate Giuseppina. Walking in is almost reminiscent of a Bugsy Malone scene, with the restaurant employing an army of charming ragtag children, mostly friends of the family, as servers and waiters. It’s the only acceptable use of child labor in 2024, and proves it really does take a village (and a few broken plates). 

Coupled with an intensely warm and welcoming ma-and-pa-esque decor and atmosphere, and a menu that has lots of potential, Giuseppina is poised to become a staple in the non-kosher Jerusalem eatery world.

Giuseppina

First Station complex

Phone: (02) 330-1855

Monday-Friday: 5 p.m.-midnight

Saturday: noon-midnight

Not kosher

The writer was a guest of the restaurant.