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The Jerusalem Post

Discovering the hidden gems of Switzerland's Rhine: A serene getaway

 
 THE MIGHTY river plunges at the Rhine Falls (photo credit: (Andre Meier/Switzerland Tourism))
THE MIGHTY river plunges at the Rhine Falls
(photo credit: (Andre Meier/Switzerland Tourism))

Explore the scenic beauty and medieval charm of Schaffhausen along the Swiss Rhine, with affordable travel tips, breathtaking sights, and the best of local hospitality in this underrated Swiss town.

Switzerland is well-known for being an expensive country to visit. Travelers will mumble that to organize a vacation there they might need to break the bank in the process. 

However, flying to Zurich and enjoying the scenery of the Rhine, either by the wonderful Swiss train system or with a rented car, together with careful planning, you might be in for a surprise.

Nestling in the medieval quiet town of Schaffhausen turns into a rewarding vacation you may want to consider. Schaffhausen is positioned on the “knee” of the Rhine and its Old Town houses are richly decorated with oriel windows and lavishly painted facades. Walking or cycling along the Rhine there is simply amazing. With a length of 375 km., this energetic waterway is the longest river in Switzerland. An absolute beauty.

The traffic-free Old Town is characterized by guild houses and merchant structures dating from Gothic and Baroque times. Those seeking a time travel to the Middle Ages will find Schaffhausen a place to fulfill their dreams. The basilica of the All Saints Monastery here is considered the largest Romanesque sacred building in Switzerland.

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Original Rhine

Not many may know this but Switzerland is regarded as the source of the River Rhine. Often called Helvetia in the early modern period, the river part in this country is called the Hochrhein (“High Rhine”) and in most cases defines the Swiss-German frontier. This mega waterway is approximately 1,233 km. long till the North Sea.

Lake Constance is the point to explore during a day trip. This is where the course of the river is being formed. Travelers and locals are seen enjoying swimming, kayaking, and canoeing, together with cycling around the lake. An inspiring place for trips and adventures.

In the small picturesque medieval town of Stein am Rhein, the lake becomes the Rhine River again. This town strikes visitors with its astonishing painted facades and half-timbered houses. Walking through a time tunnel, the visitor rewinds the clock to the Middle Ages. Originally a small fishing village, its strategic location was a winner. It became a prosperous medieval commercial center and today a tourist gem by the river.

The Rhine flows firmly west, creating breathtaking scenery. Not far away, we stop with a bottle of wine next to a shaded paradise on the edge of the river, feeding swans and ducks, listening to the emerging water flow.


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SCHAFFHAUSEN ON the Rhine, a magnificent and underrated town. (credit: (Andre Meier/Switzerland Tourism))
SCHAFFHAUSEN ON the Rhine, a magnificent and underrated town. (credit: (Andre Meier/Switzerland Tourism))

Minutes away from Schaffhausen, one of the most-visited nature sights awaits. The mighty river plunges at the Rhine Falls into the depth. In the summer, about 700 cu.m. of water gushes downwards per second. Some 1.5 million tourists a year visit Europe’s largest waterfall, which measures 150 meters wide and 23 meters high. 

This cascading and noisy water source leaves visitors amazed, experiencing the best of mother earth. It is impossible to miss this mighty scenery and, at the same time, it’s impossible to leave it. Wandering around and observing the water from both sides and over a bridge are a few hours of joy.

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Schaffhausen was chosen to be our home away from home as we also wished to explore the only branded hotel here. It is credited to American Wyndham Hotels & Resorts. This mogul brand describes itself as the largest hotel franchisor in the world, with 9,100 locations. In Israel, the name might ring a bell to a few due to one of its most recognized brands – Ramada – with hotels in Jerusalem and Netanya. 

Some might raise an eyebrow: Who was Wyndham? As in numerous cases, the answer is related to the French phrase “cherchez la femme,” “look for the woman.” The late Texas real estate tycoon Trammell Crow created the Wyndham hotel brand 42 years ago. In the early 1970s, business journalist Wyndham Robertson wrote a profile of Crow for Fortune magazine. The journalist claims that the billionaire developer admired her unique name and the rest is history. Today’s Wyndham Hotels & Resorts proudly has 24 brands and the hotel in Schaffhausen is part of one of them – the Vienna House. Less than two years ago, Wyndham acquired this brand, which originated in Austria, with approximately 40 hotels.

“Our Vienna House Schaffhausen offers 130 rooms and we have 16 suites, with large banquet facilities, right in the middle of Schaffhausen, next to the Old Town. We invite travelers to enjoy our really cute lifestyle hotel,” says charming experienced cluster general manager Heinz Krähenbühl.

An evening to cherish

We enjoyed this homey hotel and experienced some truly lifestyle boutique feeling. Our guest room had a modern design, and under composer Stravinsky’s quote “I have no time to hurry” on the wall, we had the best sleeping quality. Breakfast at the comfy Bull & Bonito dining room was pleasant with extremely friendly team members, however, dinner there was a marvelous surprise. Executive chef Stefan Schönemann’s gastronomy was a marvel, an evening to cherish. For my money, it is the best quality restaurant in Schaffhausen.

The Vienna House brand has built a guest-centric culture reputation, focusing on sustainability. The Green Bags service in Schaffhausen and all Vienna House hotels is a refreshing initiative. Guests have a choice to decide whether they prefer to skip their room cleaning and keep the same towels during their stay. They are motivated to do so by a small reward, which they receive in a linen bag hung on the handle of the room. We hung the bag on our doorknob and we got daily surprises, like a Toblerone chocolate bar or a tasty waffle.

Schaffhausen is one of the most underrated towns I have visited. Spending three nights there enjoying the beauty of the Swiss Rhine was magnificent. Its main challenge is to overcome “cruise syndrome” – heavy trafficking tourism arriving for a day trip to experience the Rhine Falls and disappearing by sunset to the next destination. For this reason, I recommend, for those seeking peace and quiet, to consider the advantages of staying longer.

Krähenbühl reveals that every second hotel guest is Swiss and the average stay is less than two nights. He would naturally be the happiest to host foreign leisure guests for longer periods in his fascinating town.

The River Rhine is associated mostly with Germany. The less familiar Rhine of Switzerland is a jewel to be discovered and a remedy to relax our souls and minds. Definitely in today’s reality.

The writer is the Travel Flash Tips publisher and was a guest of Vienna House Hotels

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