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The Jerusalem Post

Exploring Strasbourg and Alsace: Medieval charm and fine wines - review

 
 PICTURESQUE PETITE France in Strasbourg.` (photo credit: Lez Broz/Visit Alsace)
PICTURESQUE PETITE France in Strasbourg.`
(photo credit: Lez Broz/Visit Alsace)

A journey through Strasbourg and the Alsace wine region reveals stunning medieval architecture, picturesque towns, and world-class wines.

Paris attracted us all with the 33 breathtaking Olympic Games that just came to an end. To many, Paris is France; however, Strasbourg and the Alsace wine region at the border with Germany are no less impressive, especially due to an overwhelming feeling that time ceases there.

After flying to Zurich, renting a car allows for a rather quick and easy ride to this city of dream heritage architecture. Over the centuries, Strasbourg has forged an identity founded on the dual influences of France and Germany. The first one that springs to mind here is the Petite France, with its world-famous multilevel canals that attract most visitors and the half-timbered houses.

An architectural tour to see the Alsatian houses in Strasbourg is fascinating. The partly hardwood buildings symbolize the area’s resistance to German rule, as the town passed from Germany to France several times throughout history. As a result, the Alsatian houses of Strasbourg serve as a reminder of the region’s rich and complex history. Those structures are highly recognizable by their pitched roofs, stepped ceilings, and wooden exterior fronts. Built in rows during the Middle Ages, the houses create a beautiful facade of the city. The residences are usually painted in bright colors, like pink, yellow, or blue, which adds to the warm atmosphere, and decorated with wood carvings, frescoes, and floral motifs.

As we strolled around, we noticed that ornamental ceramic plaques often spelled out the names of some houses. Over the centuries, these houses became increasingly characterized by labyrinthine carvings, manufactured iron decorations, and wall paintings, reflecting the wealth and status of their owners. The remarkable Petite France neighborhood is surrounded by water canals, which is why it is sometimes called “Little Venice.” A leisurely stroll along the river delta while enjoying this medieval colorful architecture and drinking wine in a colorful cafe is certainly a thrill.

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 RIQUEWIHR, A ROMANTIC little medieval town. (credit: M. Schampion ADT)
RIQUEWIHR, A ROMANTIC little medieval town. (credit: M. Schampion ADT)

It’s important to remember that this French city attracts 10 million tourists annually, and the reasons are endless. The iconic Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg is an impressive landmark here. Positioned in extremely urban surroundings, it is a great surprise to suddenly see it in its full glory between the narrow streets. Although much of it is Romanesque architecture, it is widely considered to be one of the finest examples of the refined style of Gothic French architecture. Ironically, it is a German architect, Erwin von Steinbach, who is credited for the major planning contributions in the 13th century that made the French so proud. It is unquestionably the city’s icon.

The European Parliament, located in Strasbourg, was designed as an oval-shaped building, a symbol of union, reflecting the essential notions of transparency, democracy, and proximity. The classical circular shape of the central tower incorporates a baroque-type elliptical courtyard, implying the transition from Galileo’s circle to Kepler’s ellipse or from the symbol of centralism to a plurality of centers. From centralized power to a multi-polar European democracy. Genius thinking. Although remote from the old town, it’s a must visit for every lover of modern architecture. Entrance is free.

While staying in the city’s Hilton, an exciting voyage through my memory lane materialized. Built in the 1980s, it’s a familiar hotel in the city skyline, reflecting the partly glass-covered architecture of similar hospitality properties of the decade. Functionality is the king of planning for a hotel operation, with a focus on a variety of banquet facilities for conventions and meetings. Although the hotel is somewhat remote from the old town, it was my home during my professional visits 20 and 30 years ago. Embracing the past with emotion was the reason I chose it to be our base. This time, I was there as a paying customer, mixed with endless nostalgia.

The major reason to visit this breathtaking region is the Route des Vins d’Alsace, a road of 170 kilometers, passing through vines and picturesque villages and towns.


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Ribeauvillé, an attractive town with 5,000 inhabitants, has combined its historical heritage with modernity. The convenient public parking is 100 meters from the entrance to this major tourist hub, framed by fantastic views of vineyards and rolling hills. With its wooden facade houses, flower-laden window sills, picturesque streets, and Renaissance fountains, it is one of the most beautiful places in France. The gates and fortifications here are unique. The scenic Grand’rue, the Main street, is edged with Alsatian-style residences dating back to the 15th and 18th centuries. Their colors also correspond to a fairly intriguing past code: blue for the carpenters, red for the blacksmiths, yellow for the bakers and pastry chefs, beige for the stone trades, and green for the leather and fabric professions.

We left this true wonder for Riquewihr, another breathtaking pearl. En route, we took a break on the road near a vineyard to have coffee and play Pétanque with the locals. This traditional French social game involves hollow metal balls thrown as close as possible to a small wooden ball. While these games have existed since the Middle Ages and beyond, Pétanque’s official invention dates back only 120 years. It was fascinating to witness how this game has so many people laughing and enjoying each other’s company. The winner is irrelevant. An hour later, we were full of energy to explore our next fascinating gem.

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Hidden in some of the most famous vineyards in Alsace, Riquewihr is another wonderful, romantic medieval town. One can’t help but fall in love with its irresistible charm. Walking in the main street is a jump to the world of fairy tales. The alluring ambiance of typically colorful Alsatian architecture and balconies lined with a wonderful assortment of flowers is heartwarming. It’s hard to decide which town is more or less impressive: Riquewihr or Ribeauvillé. However, what is certain is that they both present Alsace classic architecture, and they share characteristics of a warm, welcoming accommodation with a decorative exterior often painted and embellished with medieval symbols.

More attractions are yet to come, including the highlight: Colmar, the home of Auguste Bartholdi, the father of the Statue of Liberty. During the late 19th century, Bartholdi was a world-renowned French sculptor. His greatest achievement was designing the famous crowned lady statue, which France sent as a gift to honor the French role in the American Revolution. A copy of the statue, but smaller, stands at the city entrance.

A stroll through the centuries

Colmar’s pedestrianized historical center is a conservation area featuring a rich heritage stretching from the Middle Ages until today. The city is a mix of cultures with all of its history and architecture, including a visible symbol of elements of art by the Rhine River. Despite the wars, Colmar remains virtually unscathed. The historical monuments list includes many finely restored monuments from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance. The old town center is remarkable for its harmony and beauty. Delightfully charming and incredibly romantic. A postcard-perfect town.

And the Alsace wines?

Receiving some of the lowest rainfall in France results in ripe grapes with complex aromatics. With seven primary grapes – Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sylvaner, and Muscat – the region takes pride in its 51 vineyards. We try to taste them all as part of our thrilling experience during this rewarding visit.

Boasting beautiful, hilly vineyards stretching along the Rhine, travelers enjoy both unique architecture and a variety of quality wines. This combination guarantees a journey for a lifetime.

Levons nos verres! Let’s raise our glasses to a gem of a journey.

The writer is the Travel Flash Tips publisher.

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