Rediscovering ancient luxury: A 3,800-year-old scarlet textile unveiled in the Judean desert

Published: JULY 18, 2024 21:19

A fragment of the rare 3,800-year-old textile, dyed with the Kermes vermilio. (photo credit: DAFNA GAZIT/ISRAEL ANTIQUITIES AUTHORITY) — A fragment of the rare 3,800-year-old textile, dyed with the Kermes vermilio.

(photo credit: DAFNA GAZIT/ISRAEL ANTIQUITIES AUTHORITY)

Scarlet, alongside royal blue (Tekhelet) and purple (Argaman), was revered in the ancient world for its rarity and expense.

In a recent archaeological discovery, researchers from the Israel Antiquities Authority, Bar-Ilan University, and the Hebrew University of Jerusalem have unearthed a rare 3,800-year-old textile dyed with Biblical scarlet in the caves of the Judean desert. This textile represents the earliest known evidence of fabric dyed using scale insects, identified as the biblical "Tola‛at Hashani" or scarlet worm.

Scarlet, alongside royal blue (Tekhelet) and purple (Argaman), was revered in the ancient world for its rarity and expense. According to biblical texts, these dyes were used in the fabrics of the Tabernacle and the garments of priests, signifying their sacred and prestigious status.

The significance of this find lies not only in its antiquity but also in its cultural and religious implications. Discovered in 2016 during excavations in the "Cave of Skulls," this tiny textile piece, measuring less than 2 cm, has provided insights into ancient dyeing techniques and trade networks.

Analysis using High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) confirmed that the vibrant red hue was derived from oak scale insects, specifically the Kermevermilionio species, which thrive on the thermoses oak tree. Dr. Naama Sukeni, who led the research at the Israel Antiquities, explained the meticulous process involved in harvesting these insects. Collecting them was possible only briefly each year when the dye content peaked, highlighting the labor-intensive nature of ancient dye production.

Excavation of the Israel Antiquities Authority and the Hebrew University at the Cave of Skulls, where the rare textile was discovered. (credit: YOLI SCHWARTZ/ISRAEL ANTIQUITIES AUTHORITY)

T's preservatiof textiles on in the arid conditions of the Judean deseas provided a rare window into ancient textile production and trade.

Professors Zohar Amar and David Iluz from Bar-Ilan University emphasize the historical and scientific implications of the find. They note that while similar textiles dyed with scale insects have been documented in later periods, this discovery predates them significantly, offering a unique glimpse into early dyeing practices.