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The Jerusalem Post

Tel Aviv’s natural wine bar scene is bubbling over

 
 FLOR – DELICIOUS and casual. (photo credit: LAUREN GUMPORT)
FLOR – DELICIOUS and casual.
(photo credit: LAUREN GUMPORT)

With local and global varieties found across all, it’s safe to say that Tel Aviv is solidifying its status as a destination for wine aficionados seeking innovation and a great glass.

For years, the Tel Aviv wine bar scene has left a lot to be desired. But last year alone it has dramatically transformed with a handful of unique, intimate wine shops emerging, many focusing on natural local and international selections. 

So what’s the deal with natural wine? There’s no uniform definition, but it typically means the winemaking process is accomplished without pesticides and with few or no additives. Translation (at least for me) – no hangovers.

The blossoming wine bar scene has resulted in more than a handful of options to grab a crisp glass of vino after work, over brunch on the weekend, or at a niche evening event. With the surge in natural wine bars, here are five of my current favorites that may tempt you to swap your usual white wine or pint for a glass of natural orange sooner than expected.

Coop Natur

According to its owners, the concept of Coop Natur came out of their love and passion for natural wine, gastronomy, good music, and a slower pace of life. 

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 WINE SHOP – intimate and sexy. (credit: Wine Shop)
WINE SHOP – intimate and sexy. (credit: Wine Shop)

The funky, charming wine bar and shop provides a selection of unique, international natural wines - from the well-known to the new, up-and-coming, to those that are rarely available in Israel.

Traveling extensively to taste all of the above, owners Mitya Grebenshikov, Roman Bergart, and Evgenii Petrushanskii regularly host samplings with friends and customers amid a backdrop of spun tunes and smells from the kitchen that will have you coming back time again. Make sure to order their onion-jam grilled cheese, sardines, tiramisu, and basque cheesecake.

Soon the menu, led by chef and sommelier Philipp Timofeev alongside Sava Zayko and Maria Fendgendler, will boast new additions including tasty brunch sandwiches to dig into, paired with specialty coffee, along with a handful of innovative specials to their evening menu. 

Coop features regular pop-up collaborations with their chef friends hailing from Tel Aviv, Haifa, and Jerusalem, while simultaneously working to develop the city’s natural wine culture to make it more accessible. 


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Perhaps the most fun is that the shop will deliver their wines to you the same day if you live locally – something I’ve occasionally taken advantage of, impressed by the team’s quick communication and delivery. Oh, and they take reservations.

Put simply, Coop is always a good decision and wins for being an eclectic, warm, and unique spot for wine connoisseurs and newbies alike.

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Address: 2 Hamaccabi St.

Hours: Open daily, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. for brunch; 6 p.m.-11:30 p.m. for dinner; Friday only as a wine store, from 11 a.m.-5 p.m.

Instagram: @coop_natur

Flor 

Flor marries community, casualty, a delicious daily menu, and great wine in what is hands down my favorite weeknight spot. Owners Adi Raif and Uri Kurtz (who is also head chef) have nailed an atmosphere in which you’ll fall in love with natural wine. In fact, Flor was born out of what they admit was a selfish need to create an environment that the owners themselves would keep coming back to, reminiscent of the wine bars they frequented when living in Italy and traveling abroad. 

If you ask Kurtz what to order, he’ll readily dive into a story behind the wine, almost making it impossible to choose a bottle (don’t worry, you can’t go wrong). His enthusiasm to introduce diverse winemakers to the wine shop, and customers to natural wines, shines through – even in the name: Flor is a film of yeast that grows on the surface under certain winemaking conditions, found in the area, cellar, and on the grapes. 

The wine selection isn’t the only show-stopper of this charming wine bar – perhaps it’s the star, but the fresh fare is good competition. The team in the kitchen decides on the daily menu based on what fresh produce is available, along with the fresh fish and seafood delivered daily.

The bistro-style dishes are built to compliment the wine, and are never over-complicated. Trust that you can always find a bowl of fresh pasta on the menu, along with mouthwatering cured and dried meats.

Expect Flor to host more events in the future to show off their wine, kitchen, and hospitality. And in the meantime, grab a table – walk-ins only. 

Address: 10 Wilson St.

Hours: Sunday-Thursday: bottle shop from 2 p.m.; kitchen from 6 p.m.; Friday, 12 p.m.-4 p.m.

Instagram: @flor.telaviv

Wine Shop

The love child of Triger Butchery & Wine, located right across the street, Wine Shop is an intimate, sexy wine bar with small bites and a top-notch selection of vino (natural wines included, but not limited to them). An ideal date spot, or evening locale with the girls, this is perhaps the more sophisticated option on this list.

Choose from an international and domestic selection of wines by the bottle or glass while indulging in the warm Camembert fondue. On Fridays, Wine Shop hosts guests for a sushi and sake brunch where you can dig into fresh plates of sashimi while sipping on a chilled glass of your choice. Book a reservation; otherwise you’ll be waiting.

Address: 24 Montefiore St.

Hours: Sunday-Thursday 6 p.m.-12 a.m.; Friday 12 p.m.-5 p.m.

Instagram: @_wineshop24

Croute

There’s finally a top-notch wine spot in Habima that brings a fresh new take – and delightful courtyard – to the Tel Avivian wine scene. Croute’s buzzing wine bar and food counter serve up both local and foreign wines (natural options included), which you can pair with small plates of sashimi, pasta, paté en croute with a side of pickles, and pillowy breads. 

It’s not a surprise that the menu and drink list hit the spot – it’s by the same owners as Pereh on Nahalat Binyamin. Arrive early (they don’t take reservations) and be ready to grab the first available table or to just sit on the steps, basking in the laid-back scene while enjoying drinks and bites.

Address: 4 Tarsat Ave.

Hours: Sunday-Thursday 6 p.m.-12 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 12 p.m.-6 p.m.

Instagram: @croute_telaviv

Brava Gente

The two-month-old newcomer to the wine bar scene is Brava Gente, cozied up next to a traditional hat-making shop on Nahalat Binyamin and just one of many fresh additions to the street. 

With a few organic wines from Portugal on the menu, along with a variety of other wines, you’ll find no shortage of options to sip, as well as a healthy-sized menu that is both dairy and full of vegetable offerings.

Dishes are inspired by the produce selection in nearby Shuk Hacarmel, and feature fresh pastries whipped up by one of the owners and trained pastry chef Eric Ponomariov. Pair a crisp glass of vino with plates including succulent whole artichoke, and baked brie bruschetta with homemade cherry jam.

All sauces and spreads are made in-house, as are the kombucha and freshly baked cookies that you’ll want to end the night with.

Address: 45 Nahalat Binyamin St.

Hours: Saturday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-12 a.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.

Instagram: @bravagentetlv

Cheers!

TEL AVIV’S burgeoning wine scene is thriving – even amid the Israel-Hamas war – from chic wine bars to weekly tasting events. With local and global varieties found across all, it’s safe to say that the White City is solidifying its status as a destination for wine aficionados seeking innovation and a great glass of something new.

Lauren Gumport is an avid traveler, travel writer, and VP of communications at the travel tech startup, Faye Travel Insurance. Her travel tips have been featured in The Wall Street Journal, USA Today, BuzzFeed and more. Follow her on Instagram at @Gumport.

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