Comfort food recipes for winter

Sometimes it’s hard to let go of the long, lazy, leisurely days of summer, but there’s no need to dread winter. Indeed, in the 18th century, poet William Cowper wrote an ode to winter (“The Winter Evening”), which began:

“I crown thee king of intimate delights, 

Fireside enjoyments, homeborn happiness.”

Home is most inviting when it’s cold and dark outside. I remember from my childhood sitting on a cushion in front of a real fire, toasting bread on the end of a long fork; Dad roasting chestnuts in the embers; my mother showing me pictures of castles, princesses, and dragons in the light of the glowing coals; while I sip hot cocoa. I’m smiling as I conjure up this memory of winter delight.

Comfort foods are an integral part of winter. We can indulge in a few extra calories without feeling too guilty, especially if we have good friends and family to share it with. While we skipped rope at school, we used to chant a rhyme:

“Keep the kettle boiling,

Do not miss a loop,

Keep the kettle boiling

Else you’ll get no soup!”

On winter Sundays, we would go to the country looking for mushrooms. If we were successful, it meant mushrooms on toast or delicious mushroom soup. Now we buy them at the market (the big black ones are the tastiest), but the soup is still wonderful.

Mushroom Soup

Serves 6.

• 300 gr. mushrooms 
• 1½ Tbsp. butter 
• 2 Tbsp. sour cream (shamenet) 
• 2 Tbsp. plain flour 
• 500 ml. milk

Chop the mushrooms into chunks. Remove skin and discard stalks. Fry mushrooms lightly in butter and set aside. Keep butter on low heat and stir in flour. Gradually add milk until the mixture thickens, stirring well. Add mushrooms and simmer gently for 5 min. Just before serving, stir in the sour cream. Serve with toast or croutons.

ON COLD winter nights, we tended to eat light, easy to prepare meals around the fire for supper (or “tea,” as it was called in my native Australia). My mother used to make Welsh Rarebit, a slightly more glamorous version of cheese on toast. As kids, we felt very sophisticated because it had wine in it.

Welsh Rarebit

Serves 4.

• 300 gr. grated cheese (we liked cheddar)
• 2 Tbsp. milk 
• 1 Tbsp. sherry or port 
• 1 Tbsp. Worcester sauce 
• Pinch dry mustard 
• Pinch pepper 
• Parsley for garnish

In a heavy saucepan, combine all ingredients over low heat. Stir gently without boiling. Pour over thick slices of toast. Garnish with parsley.

When I recall my childhood winter desserts, I remember all kinds of wonderful custards. Even today, when I eat custard in any form, I am aged about nine again and allowed to sprinkle the nutmeg over the top. For my birthday, I always asked for Bread and Butter Pudding.

Bread and Butter Pudding

Serves 6.

• 12 slices white bread (crusts removed) 
• 50 gr. raisins 
• 120 gr. (4 oz.) sugar 
• 500 ml. milk 
• 3 egg yolks plus 1 whole egg 
• Nutmeg 
• Apricot jam to glaze

Grease an oven-proof pudding dish. Cut each slice of bread diagonally. Arrange in a dish with raisins sprinkled between each layer.

Dissolve the sugar in the milk. Whisk egg yolks and beaten egg and add to milk and sugar. Pour mixture over bread slices and sprinkle with nutmeg. Cook in a double dish resting in an inch (2.5 cm.) of water at 180°C (350 °F) for 45 min. Brush with apricot jam and cook for a further 15 min. Allow to rest for 10 min. before serving with thick cream.

THE WARMTH of winter. The crust on the apple pie. The smell of biscuits baking. The crisp outside of the Sunday roast. Memories to gladden the heart. And remember:

“If Winter comes, can Spring be far behind?”

The writer is the author of 14 books. She can be contacted at dwaysman@gmail.com