Sergei Palace Hotel brings an old-school touch to the Old City – review

The Sergei Palace Hotel in Jerusalem is an oasis of beauty and quiet in the middle of the city, with a relaxing atmosphere and a fascinating history.

A recent stay at the four-star hotel felt a little like taking a vacation abroad, without the hassle. But it is right in the center of the city, on Heleni Hamalka Street, next to the Russian Compound, and a few minutes’ walk to the Old City. The best of Jerusalem is available right at its doorstep. 

The hotel was founded in the 1880s and is located on the territory of the Mission of Saint Sergius, a hospice and guesthouse for Russian pilgrims. The hotel features the Sergievsky Museum, which offers a glimpse into the history of the hotel and its surroundings. The hotel reopened in 2017 after a complete renovation and is fully equipped with all amenities, such as air-conditioning and cable television. 

The Sergei Palace is old-fashioned in the best sense of the word. For example, doors open with keys, not cards that most hotel chains use these days.

The rooms are simply furnished and elegant, with high ceilings. The bed in the room where I stayed is just about the most comfortable I’ve ever slept on, not too soft like most hotel mattresses. Although the hotel is so close to the center of town, the room was quiet all night. 

Accommodations and nearby to-dos

When weather permits, meals are served in the garden, adjacent to a small turreted tower, and lit by festive lights at night. The Palace Restaurant, which is not kosher, offers continental fare, as well as local specialties such as knaffeh. They were able to accommodate a vegetarian and a vegan with ease. 

The salads, served with lunch and breakfast, and at dinner along with focaccia, were especially tasty, with spreads that included green and black olives, sun-dried tomatoes, and fresh eggplant. The restaurant offers a wide variety of imported wines, beers, and cocktails. It’s popular with Jerusalemites who drop in for drinks and dinner.

The hotel offers a sauna and a concert hall. Free parking is available for guests. There are accessible rooms for those who can’t walk steps. 

It’s worth visiting the Sergievsky Museum; guided tours can be arranged through the reception desk. The museum’s focus is the life of Russian pilgrims in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when thousands of Russians made the journey to Jerusalem to view and touch the city’s Christian holy sites.

The museum was founded by and operates through the support of the Antonin Kapustin Foundation. Kapustin was a Russian Orthodox monk and religious educator, as well as Byzantine scholar, who moved to Jerusalem in the 19th century and helped found the hospice.

The exhibits feature photographs, documents, and items from the medical clinics at the hospice. A typical pilgrim’s room of the late 19th century has been restored there, and photographs show the lives of these pilgrims, who traveled so far to come to Jerusalem. 

For many, the hotel will be an ideal jumping-off place for exploring the Old City. Those who want to visit Mahaneh Yehuda, either by day to soak up the atmosphere, or to enjoy its lively nightlife, can catch the light rail on Jaffa Street, right near the hotel, which goes straight there. Visitors from outside of Jerusalem can take the light rail from Jerusalem’s central bus and train station to get to the hotel.

The streets surrounding the hotel offer fascinating sights. In addition to the Russian Compound, which is one of the highlights of any visit to downtown Jerusalem, the Ethiopian Church is on nearby Ethiopia Street, and visitors can see beautiful murals there, in addition to ancient ritual objects. 

The home of Eliezer Ben-Yehuda, who revived Hebrew as a modern, spoken language, is on this street as well, although the plaque marking it is often torn down by religious extremists who believe that Hebrew should only be used for prayers. 

The newly opened Purple House, a center that promotes coexistence, is just a block away. Hamiffal, a coworking and art center popular with students, is a short walk from the hotel and hosts exhibits and performances. 

Staying at such a quiet and serene spot in the middle of a bustling city is a refreshing experience, especially in these difficult days.

sergeipalace.com

The writer was a guest of the hotel.