Surprising Batumi, on Georgia's Black Sea Coast

Tree-lined promenades, stunning floral displays, delightful wines, and cascading waterfalls make Batumi and the Ajara region a great destination.

Guests are a gift from God. At least that’s what they say in the Ajara region of Georgia.

It’s early April and the temperature is perfect. The sunlight plays off the water and the buildings sparkle all along the coast.

The tourist attractions of Georgia

Hebrew abounds. Strict gambling rules in Israel mean that the abundance of casinos draws in thousands of Israelis each week. The Hilton’s casino beckons spielers in Georgian, Turkish, English, and Ivrit, while the breakfast eggs menu (including shakshuka) is in English and Hebrew.

But the good folks at Visit Batumi want the world to know there is far more to Batumi and the Ajara region than slots, wheels, and cards on offer in your hotel.

There are 25 km. of swimmable coastline, top-tier concerts, ski slopes, and amazing Georgian food, often complemented by traditional music and folk dancing.

But let’s start with grapes. Georgia is considered to be the birthplace of wine (although neighboring Armenia might challenge that boast).

The human presence in Georgia goes back a long way – 1.8 million years. While the wine industry might not be quite that dated, it’s reckoned turning grapes into something wonderful began in what is today’s Georgia more than 8,000 years ago. That’s a lot of fermenting time. 

And that means generations of expertise have cultivated 535 varieties of grape and a touch of elegance in many a glass. And an excellent bottle can be extremely affordable – make that a third of the price of a roughly-equivalent bottle in Israel. Look out as well for potent chacha, a 41% proof wine-based spirit with a spicy kick.

Locals are fiercely proud of their Ajaran and Georgian dishes. Being there during the meat-free Lent period means large walnut and spinach balls and creamy salads are the de rigueur precursor to mouthwatering and never-ending mezzes of cheese or bean-based mains.

The ubiquitous khachapuri comes in many forms and is not always the famous Ajaran oval-shaped pastries filled with soft cheese and topped with egg yolk. The Imeruli khachapuri, for instance, looks a lot like a flattered calzone, minus the tomato sauce.

There are also options for the kosher traveler in town – the Chabad-run and predictably-named Mendi’s restaurant and the restaurants in the King Solomon Hotel.

Given there are just 50 Jewish families in the local community, it’s the Jewish tourists, particularly Israelis, who keep these eateries in business.

The white, marble synagogue is spacious, airy, and immaculate. It is open daily to visitors and anyone wishing to pray. Official services are held on Shabbat and festivals but if sufficient tourists turn up, daily prayers are guaranteed.

Batumi Jews and tourism officials alike say the city is a safe place to be, no matter who you are. 

Some Israelis have a reputation in Batumi for heading to their hotel casino and not venturing much further. The Visit Batumi team wants them to get some fresh air and enjoy all aspects of city life, such as Georgian designer shopping and the city’s diversity.

“It’s an all-season destination with an international airport and a train to the capital Tbilisi too,” says Mikheil Koplatadze, the deputy chairman of the organization charged with bringing visitors to the Autonomous Republic of Ajara. (Don’t worry about the name. Ajara’s political system is akin to that of a state in the US.)

A short stroll from the known-brand hotels and their casinos brings you to a truly wonderful promenade. It’s a 6 km.-long series of camellia and magnolia-filled gardens, with featured palms, a Japanese garden, and a bamboo forest that run parallel to the adjacent boardwalk.

While you stroll and look in awe at the tree-lined promenade, fountains, and boardwalk, there are plenty of seaside activities for kids too, and yet it never feels too gaudy.

For superb views of the city and Lesser Caucasus mountains, take the Argo cable car, or you may want to try an early morning boat ride for some dolphin spotting or a sunset sail around the bay.

Quick trips (no more than 15 km.) bring you to three worthwhile attractions: the Petra and Gonio forts and the stunning Batumi Botanical Gardens.

If the cable car named Argo rang a Greek-mythology bell, you’d be spot on. Apsaros, who chased Jason away from the region, carrying the golden fleece of Kutaisi, may be buried in Gonio Fort, where he was joined by the Apostle Matthias, who brought Christianity to the area in the 1st Century.

The botanical gardens boasts one of the most variegated plant collections in the world with 5,000 species of plants and trees covering more than 100 hectares. Redwoods and sequoia grow alongside local trees, shrubs, and flowers, with panoramic views of the Green Cape shore. There is even a zip-line for the more adventurous botanist.

And if the gardens whetted your appetite for nature, the Ajara region boasts magnificent waterfalls. Head around 25 km. east from Batumi and you will find the Mirveti waterfall. Follow a beautiful trail over the River Chorokhi, through the hamlet, and past a 13th-century bridge and you will discover the enchanting 15-meter waterfall. Head a further 15 km. east and you come to the Makhuntseti waterfall. Three times higher than the Mirveti, the locals believe the waters pooling below the fall have a refreshing and life-enhancing effect.

If the waters for Makhuntseti don’t rejuvenate you, the wines and exquisite restaurant at the Ajarian Wine House may ease the journey back to your hotel. Specializing in bringing back traditional Ajaran winemaking traditions, you can taste qvevri, wine made in underground clay vessels, different varieties of potent chacha, and even cognac. The wine house also offers master classes in making cheese, bread, and khinkali – Georgian dumplings made of twisted knobs of dough, filled with meat and spices.

Our trip finishes with a little surprise – a soccer game at Batumi’s new Adjarabet Arena. A gleaming 20,000-seat stadium, its panels illuminated at night to give the effect of spinning Georgian dancers. The hosts and champions, Dinamo Batumi, play the legendary team from the capital, Dinamo Tbilisi. If we have successfully persuaded you to tear yourself away from the casino, you can always bet on the result of the Georgian Classico.

Mark and David were guests of Visit Batumi.

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