Carrousel: A French culinary escape from Israel's war - review

A good meal at a restaurant can provide the escape from reality that we all occasionally need during this dreadful war. And where better to forget your troubles than at Carrousel, a wonderful little French bistro in Ra’anana that attracts visitors from all over the country.

Carrousel owner and chef Stephane Cohen-Aloro has been in business for over 20 years, first in the center of town and later at the bistro’s current premises, outside of town in the hi-tech Etgarim complex. Before disappearing into the kitchen of his small establishment, Cohen-Aloro told us about some of the battles he has waged over the years with Israeli bureaucracy, which makes opening a restaurant a major challenge.

Fortunately for us, he overcame the problems with French fortitude and has brought authentic Gallic cuisine to a clientele who appreciates the gourmet food emerging from his kitchen.

Authentic French cuisine, beating out Israeli beureaucracy

The menu, in English, lists a dazzling array of choices and I chose an Aveyronnaise salad, a classic dish from the South of France consisting of lettuce with apples, walnuts, and crumbled Roquefort cheese (minus the bacon found in the original non-kosher recipe) It was a perfect starter, being very light, and the strong flavor of the cheese and the vinaigrette woke up the taste buds admirably (NIS 52).

My companion chose tartignole – small mouthfuls of toasted baguette topped with melted goat-camembert cheese. These were very tasty nibbles and just the thing for an opener to a gourmet meal (NIS 56).

A basket of homemade brioche and butter also appeared at our table. Stephane makes all the bread himself. In fact, he makes everything himself.

My companion chose the seabass as a main course. This is cooked with mint and pink peppercorns and comes with butternut squash puree, sautéed potatoes, and roasted fennel. The mint flavor added a lot to what is already a very solid fish. (NIS 130).

I decided to go for a crepe, the famous French pancake that can be filled with just about anything. This one had fresh salmon pieces in a cheesy sauce and I was in heaven (NIS 56). The dish came with a green salad on the side.

We each had our favorite drink to accompany the meal. My companion has developed a passion for beer and I drank a glass of red Alon wine from the Harei HaGalil winery, having been convinced, long ago, that red wine is actually healthy.

We decided to share a dessert, of which the menu offers a great selection, including crème brulée (NIS 38) and chocolate mousse (NIS 35). We ordered the profiteroles, (cream puffs filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with hot chocolate sauce and grilled almonds). The pastry was exceptionally good and the vanilla ice cream with the chocolate was a great blending of flavors (NIS 35/42).

Our waiter for this great meal was Stephane’s son, David, aged 17. Last time we were served by Leo, another son. Stephane and his wife Valerie have, like us, two older daughters, and two sons born after a long gap. So this, plus a love of good food, means we have a lot in common.

• Carrousel
• 3 Zarhin Street
• Ra’anana
• Tel: (09) 7460586
• Open: Mon.-Thu., 12- 2.30 p.m.; 7-10 p.m.; Fri. closed
• Wheelchair accessible
• Kashrut: Ra’anana Rabbinate
• The writer was a guest of the restaurant.