Oscar Wilde Bistro and Bar: A fantastic Irish pub in Holon, Israel - review

Judging by the number of Irish pubs around Israel there seems to be quite an affinity between the two countries, in spite of political differences. And let’s not forget that the father of our president, Chaim Herzog, who was also a president of Israel, was born in Belfast.

So, when we were invited to dine at the Oscar Wilde Bistro and Bar in Holon, we didn’t need much persuading. The owner decided, quite recently, to go kosher and changed the décor and the menu, adding new cocktails and a dizzying choice of draught beers.

Against my better judgment, I agreed to try a brand new cocktail, so new it didn’t yet have a name but consisted of gin and Campari, with pineapple and passiflora. It was, as one might expect, rather sweet, and the alcohol content was somewhat outweighed by the fruit. (NIS 55). My companion was thrilled to be able to drink draught Guinness – the real thing.

Eating at an Irish pub in Israel

We chose sashimi salmon as a starter and focaccia with dips. The salmon was raw and fresh and appeared to be swimming in soy sauce. The hot bread had three dips on the side – olives, a red pepper puree, and salsa verde. After the long drive – 40 minutes from Netanya – we were rather hungry and tucked in with relish. Both dishes were well-presented and tasted great.

We ordered our mains – a steak for my companion and a vegetarian dish of Jerusalem artichoke for me, and while we waited, a plate of cigars arrived. I would not have chosen this but must admit they were delicious, with crispy filo encasing a kind of meat paste, served together with two dips – tehina and spicy s’hug.

The Jerusalem artichoke was, I think, roasted and it did its best – but basically, it’s quite a boring vegetable when there’s nothing else on the plate. This was entirely a question of my making the wrong choice and not a reflection of the quality of the food. Thank heavens for the bowl of cubed fried potatoes that magically appeared.

My companion seemed very happy with his steak, grilled medium-well, as requested. (NIS 179).

Just when we felt we couldn’t consume another crumb, a dish of sweet and sour chicken wings arrived. Impossible to resist, we somehow managed to do justice to these too.

Enquiring about dessert, we were told there was one choice only – Bastousa, a kind of cake made from semolina. (It means “small kiss” in Arabic.)

We decided to pass and said our farewells to the very efficient and pleasant staff who had served us.

As it is named for the great master of aphorisms and probably the most quotable writer in the English language, I looked up what the divine Oscar had to say about food. Surprisingly little as it turned out. The best I could come up with is “After a good dinner one can forgive anybody, even one’s own relatives” (from A Woman of no Importance).

You don’t have to agree with him, but you certainly get a very good dinner at the restaurant named in his honor.

The writer was a guest of the restaurant.

• Oscar Wilde Bistro and Bar
• 26 HaLahav Street (corner Harokmim)
• Azrieli, Holon
• Tel: (03) 778 5550
• Kashrut: Holon Rabbinate.
• Open: Sunday-Thursday 7 p.m.–midnight; Saturday, one hour after Shabbat till late. Closed Friday and Shabbat.
• Wheelchair accessible.