Regina: Glatt kosher meat in an old Templar building - review

Tel Aviv has everything for the curious diner – including a glatt kosher meat restaurant.

Situated in a restored 120-year-old Templar building in a cozy corner of the old Tel Aviv rail station, Regina offers ample seating both indoors and outdoors in its rustic courtyard.

The tahana was packed because a wine festival was taking place, but the courtyard of Regina’s blocked the tumult and noise, providing a tranquil respite to the city that never sleeps.

Although tourism is sparse this summer, Regina was hopping. The night we were there, four different groups of 25-plus guests enjoyed their own private space. Yet, the well-stocked staff were able to devote full attention to the individual tables of diners that had arrived to enjoy one of the only kosher meat establishments in the area.

In Tel Aviv, it’s warm and muggy even at night, but Regina’s air coolers provided the breeze needed to sit outside in comfort. One of their signature cocktails also helps. The Regina in the Forest (NIS 43) goes down very easy, made with vodka, Sprite, strawberry sorbet and mint.

Although it probably aspires to present itself as an elegant 5-star gourmet restaurant, the vibe is more like a decent family establishment with reasonable prices and generous portions. There were a number of selections on the menu that weren’t available, but those that were on the active roster were top notch.

What's on the menu at Regina's?

For an appetizer, we chose the Chicken Liver Paté served with onion, jam and toast (NIS 52). Chef Shimon Atias, who stopped by to say hello, explained that the dish that evening wasn’t paté, but real chopped liver, the old fashioned style, which I like even better. It was smooth without being creamy, and flavorful to the max.

Atias, who’s been at the helm for three years, explained that his kitchen philosophy was to eschew the fancy and focus instead on the raw ingredients and the process of creating the most flavorful sauces and accents to the dishes.

When he realized we hadn’t ordered the Roasted Eggplant with homemade tahini (NIS 48), Atias insisted that we try it, saying “people come to Regina just for this.” Upon arrival, it turned out that he wasn’t kidding – it was like an eggplant steak bursting with flavor.

For the main course, my wife ordered the Grilled Chicken Pullet (pargiyot) steak, served with baked potatoes (NIS 92) which was tender, juicy and tasty. But mine was better.

The menu listed it as Asado Stew, slow cooked in a sweetened beef broth, with mushrooms, served with yellow rice and cranberries (NIS 118). However, I was told that tonight, instead of asado, it was a more ambiguous beef stew. Disappointed, I gambled on it and it paid off in spades. The high cut of meat was succulent and the glaze was outstanding.

A glance at the dishes being brought out by the wait staff to other diners revealed some attractive options that would have been just as satisfying – like the Three-Floor Hamburger consisting of hamburger, smoked beef sausage and fried onion rings in a bun with lettuce, tomato, and purple onion, all served with a heaping offering of golden fries (NIS 98), and the Shwarma Plate: a mound of turkey slices served on a plancha, with homemade tahini and the aforementioned chips (NIS 78).

For the purpose of comprehensiveness, we ordered one dessert – the Apple Fingers – hot filo pastry fingers stuffed with apples and cinnamon accompanied by vanilla ice cream (NIS 42). It was like a delicate mini apple pie, and a perfect way to end the meal.

• Regina’s
• The Tachana, Tel Aviv
• 03-736-7474
• Glatt kosher

The writer was a guest of the restaurant.