Petra Bar & Kitchen: Where Georgian delights meet Mediterranean delicacies - review

So many things have been put on hold since October 7 when the country switched to war mode. Holidays were canceled, celebrations were put on the back burner and people just stopped going out. The war effort became everyone’s top priority – anything else could wait.

Until recently, that is. As so many livelihoods have sadly become another casualty of this miserable war, it’s heartening to see that business is starting to pick up, albeit in a more muted, respectful way. Last week, for example, I was invited to Petra Bar & Kitchen, a Georgian restaurant in Ashdod, to try out their new menu.

This large, lively restaurant has been a well-known feature on the Ashdod beachfront for decades.

A well-known Ashdod beachfront fixture

My youngest son, Lev, volunteered to accompany me in the supportive, heady role of “tasting partner.”

We decided to go for lunch so we could take in the view while we ate.

The restaurant is split into two sections: a bar/inside seating area, and a large, bright, bustling outdoor restaurant on the beach housed in a temporary awning in the winter months.

We were shown to our table, one row in from the coveted tables on the frontline, with a promise to be moved as soon as one of those tables became free.

The restaurant manager, Tony, a lovely fellow, introduced himself and clucked around us like a mother hen, although he was keen to stress that everyone is treated like royalty (which did indeed appear to be the case).

With a vast array of dishes from which to choose, including fresh fish daily, a whole host of traditional Georgian dishes, salads, pasta, burgers, and soups, Tony came to our rescue with various suggestions of things for us to try.

We began with a selection of starters.

The salmon tartare on sliced brioche (NIS 84) was probably our favorite, although the Petra salad (NIS 84), which included cherry tomatoes, Italian artichoke, rocket, and purple onion topped with a large ball of tasty burrata cheese – a meal on its own – came a close second.

We also tried a couple of hot starters: Traditional Georgian dumplings (NIS 68), and Artichoke krachopi – pickled artichoke halves sautéed in chili cream, butter, Parmesan, and cilantro (NIS 78). While the dumplings were perhaps a little too oily and stodgy for our tastes, we loved the artichoke dish and the sauce, in particular, which was heavenly.

For my main, I was keen to try the fresh fish for which the restaurant is well-known. I went with the Denis (gilt head sea bream) fish with all the trimmings including a mushroom sauce on the side. Expertly cooked, this delicate white fish was a pleasure to eat, although those who struggle to fillet a whole fish may need a hand. Lev ordered the Asado with home fries (NIS 114) which also proved to be a good choice.

At Tony’s insistence, we also tried the famous Georgian dish Khachapuri Nino: Georgian yeast dough in the shape of a boat filled with a mixture of Georgian cheeses and spinach with an egg on top, baked in a stone oven and served with butter. Tony made a dramatic display of preparing the dish – twirling and mixing the cheese, egg, butter, and spinach – before we both tucked into it.

Although we barely had any room left after those two courses, we managed to squeeze in dessert – and boy, am I glad we did!

The crème brûlée (NIS 48) was wonderful, but even more fabulous were the exquisite cream-filled blintzes made on the premises – the only restaurant in Israel where they can be found.

As one Facebook friend commented when I posted a photo of them,  “Honestly, only on the Lower East Side in NYC can you find that!”

As the designated driver, I could only have a couple of sips of Lev’s Georgian dry white wine, which I’ll be sure to order next time we go. Had I not been driving, I may also have indulged in one of the fabulous cocktails on offer or even a half of Guinness, which was served on tap.

Of all my children, I’d say Lev is my favorite restaurant review companion and I wouldn’t hesitate to take him with me again. Together, we enjoyed a delicious lunch in a beautiful setting.

But next time, he’s driving!

• Petra Bar & Kitchen
• Mafkura Street 1
• Ashdod
• Tel. (08) 865-1610
• Open daily: 9 a.m. to 12.45 a.m. (including Friday and Saturday)
• Not kosher

The writer and her son were guests of the restaurant